Month: October 2019

Runway to Reality

Not having paid much attention to haute couture for the last 5-7 years, I don’t have strong feelings about most designers. I have started to develop a list of favourites in the last 18 months, but it’s a pretty short one and it’s based predominantly on my own personal experiences with particular brands. I’ve never thrifted any Celine clothes, so I don’t have a lot of thoughts on Celine. It’s not on my favourites shortlist, although of course I would be more than happy to have a chance to try it out.

That being said, I am deeply, deeply digging their F/W 2019-2020 collection. Even if Celine, as a whole, does not represent my overall aesthetic, this one collection really nailed one facet of it. I mean, this outfit, you guys … GAH!

I love everything about this and the best part is that it’s eminently wearable! In real life! Even for this suburban working mom!

A quick mental inventory of my closet told me that I already have most of the necessary pieces. The only thing missing is a pair of tweed culottes. I am planning to remedy this unfortunate omission at the earliest opportunity thrifting permits. In the meantime, I decided to turn the outfit on its head: why not tweed on top and leather on the bottom?

Initially, I tried a different skirt (with more of an A-line silhouette) but I didn’t like how it worked; the above-the-knee length made the outfit look too schoolgirlish for my liking. Although this pencil skirt doesn’t create quite the same silhouette as the culottes, I like the overall effect. Sometimes, it takes a few tweaks to get an outfit you really love. Sprezzatura doesn’t just happen 😉

What I Wore: October 5-12, 2019

Street Style

Not gonna lie: this is 100% outside my style comfort zone. I mean, I am comfortable with maxi skirts and leather jackets, but this particular combo is not really in my wheelhouse. I feel it’s what the young kids might call “street style”? I don’t even know. But I do know these marble-print Docs are amazing and deserve more wears that I have been able to give them so far. I thought they would be a cool pairing with the sporty vibe of this Phillip Lim skirt, which was one part of my most amazing thrift haul ever. [More on that later.] I like how it all came together, but I’m still not sure it’s “me”. Oh well, sometimes experimenting is the main point.

Notes: Line sweater (thrifted, $8.50), Mackage jacket (thrifted, $50); Phillip Lim skirt (thrifted, $7); Doc Marten boots (swap, free).

Walk On The Wild Side

I don’t usually buy H&M pieces, even secondhand (their aesthetic doesn’t appeal as much as, say, Zara) but I had to make an exception for this animal print jacquard coat. It’s utterly ridiculous, and utterly fabulous at the same time. I could picture Tilda Swinton wearing the luxe version of it, and decided I needed to have this regular-person version in my closet. I paid $40 for it at the Wardrobe Exchange event which is a LOT for me as a thrifter, but also not really in the bigger scheme of things. I love the swampy green colour the most; truly, if it had been a regular black/tan animal print, I would not have given it a second glance. I also love the shape of it – masculine and slightly boxy – which is hard to capture in photos; you have a hint of it in the righthand photo.

I would love to say that I went all out and paired this coat with some fantastically over-the-top outfit – hello, Bohemian! – but I wanted to wear it to work so … plain black it was. For now.

Notes: H&M coat (secondhand, $40); Theory top (thrifted, $5); Aritzia pants (thrifted, $8); Rafael necklace (eBay, $160); Cole Haan shoes (thrifted, $20).

The Best Outfit

Does this qualify as burying the lede? Because this is one of my favourite outfits ever, and by that reason alone, maybe I should have put it first. However, we can also look at it as your reward for reading this far into the post. Ta da! This represents the pinnacle – for the time being, if I am gonna be optimistic – of my thrifting career. I found a Rick Owens leather vest, friends. After years of searching and hoping and searching and hoping, it finally happened. It was a personal style victory, because RO is one of my most favourite designers, and a thrifting victory, because this stuff is EXPENSIVE AND ALSO WHO THE HECK JUST GIVES IT AWAY?! Ahem. I am very very grateful to that person. Thanks to them, I got to wear head to toe (almost) Rick Owens and I felt like a million bucks.

Notes: Line sweater dress (thrifted, $17); Rick Owens tunic (secondhand, $133); Rick Owens vest (thrifted, $9!!!!); Stuart Weitzman boots (thrifted, $20).

The Artist

I don’t know what it is – the proportions and lines, the arty necklace, the colour palette – but this whole look strikes me as very artistic. I have been struggling a bit to come up with toppers to wear with this amazing Maria Cornejo dress, because the deep dark green colour doesn’t shine next to black. I like the green-on-green happening here, but I think I will need to branch out to some more exciting colour combos next. Maybe lilac?

Notes: Zero + Maria Cornejo dress (thrifted, $19); Elsamanda sweater (thrifted, $8); necklace (thrifted, $5??); Tory Burch boots (thrifted, $20).

Return of Hygge

Last but not least, this is a pretty simply outfit that ended up being a real winner. I love the look of these over-the-knee suede boots (even though I wish there were flats, not heels) but they have a short shelf-life here in Edmonton. I pulled them out for a dinner date to celebrate my husband’s birthday and, sure enough, it started raining that night and the temps dipped below zero. Sigh. But while it lasted, it was fun. This Pringle of Scotland dress has come to be my go-to when I want to show off some leg; the volume and loose fit balances out the high hemline. Also, the geometric print is aces. For warmth, I added a chunky Line sweater (also part of my epic haul) and a knit beanie (not picture). It’s what ya gotta do when you’ve been working from home and haven’t washed your hair, and your husband says “why don’t we run out for dinner”. Hashtag: real life glamour.

Notes: Line sweater (thrifted, $6); Pringle of Scotland dress (thrifted, $8.50); Paco Gil boots (thrifted, $??); YSL bag (eBay, $500).

A Quick Primer on Fashion Magick

am not a huge Potterhead, but I recently fell down a rabbit hole of Slytherin-inspired fashion – green and black, cool textures, what more could a woman ask for? – and that’s how I eventually found out about fashion magick. It’s a thing. And apparently I’ve been a witch for some time? Wait, what?

Let’s back up.

As best as I can tell – and, necessary disclaimer, I don’t have any actual witch training – fashion magick appears to be subset of (or possibly another name for) glamour magic. Glamour magic is, simply put, the creation of an illusion. Our contemporary usage of the word “glamour” is somewhat different, but not entirely unrelated. Excuse this brief Wikipedia detour, but I like the quote and wanted to share it:

“Virginia Postrel says that for glamour to be successful it nearly always requires sprezzatura—an appearance of effortlessness, and to appear distant—transcending the everyday, to be slightly mysterious and somewhat idealised, but not to the extent it is no longer possible to identify with the person. Glamorous things are neither opaque, hiding all, nor transparent showing everything, but translucent, favourably showing things.”

Anyway, back to magick. A glamour is a spell or enchantment whose purpose is to manipulate the perceptions that other(s) may have of a person or object. There are various ways to cast a glamour, and various reasons why you would want to do it – some more ethical than others. As best as I can tell from my brief foray into the subject matter, there are 3 key steps to casting a glamour: setting the intention, visualizing the result, and willing it (reinforcing it). You can read more on Tumblr, hah.

Ok, but what about the fashion part? Well, obviously, clothing is a tool that can be used to cast a glamour! Per Gabriela Herstik in an article for i-D Magazine:

“a glamour is being intentional with your style. It’s a way for you to take control of the way you’re perceived. It’s a way to disguise what is beneath. Personal style is exactly what a glamour is – it’s a way for you to shape how others see you.”

Fashion magick is more than just wearing clothes; it’s wearing clothes with intention.

If old school glamour is about “favourably showing things”, fashion magick is about choosing what things to show. I guess standing in one’s closet asking oneself “who do I want to be today” is not just a question of indecisiveness, after all. Speaking for, um, a friend.

Although I am generally a skeptical person when it comes to things that cannot be scientifically measured or proved, I do believe in the transformative power of clothes. In glamour, if you will. All major fashion icons cast glamours over us, the general public. They create a powerful persona – an identity – crafted in large part based on their sartorial presentation. Do we really know who Audrey Hepburn was? No, but we all think we do. Is Tilda Swinton a benevolent alien goddess in exile on earth? No, but I am, like, 97.5% sure of it anyway. These two women might not have a lot in common, but they each had/have a very distinctive personal style. They’re both excellent at that 3rd step of (magickal) glamour-casting — sustaining the image (illusion). Not every fashionable woman in history has done that; some are merely well-dressed – not iconic.

I am obviously not in the latter category – and debatably in the former – but reading about fashion magick has reinforced my interest in dressing with intention. I already think a lot about the language of fashion, so this is right up my alley. The right piece, and the right combination of pieces, delight me in the same way as a beautiful turn of phrase. Not everyone thinks about clothing that way, I know; but I am also convinced that, whether consciously or not, most people are far more susceptible to the messages of the medium that we credit it. Don’t worry, I plan to use my powers (such as they are) for good!

One more thing, to bring this full circle back to glamour. I think there is a common notion that true style – the aspirational kind – is effortless. In fact, part of its perceived merit is tied to effortlessness. French girls, etcetera. I couldn’t disagree more. Yes, as with any art form, some people might have an inherent predisposition, an “eye” for it. But Picasso wasn’t born “Picasso, painting genius”; all great artists work at their craft, and if the results look effortless, then that is just proof of their mastery of the craft. Go back to the definition of sprezzatura – per Wikipedia again, because I’m lazy:

“Sprezzatura [sprettsaˈtuːra] is an Italian word that first appears in Baldassare Castiglione’s 1528 The Book of the Courtier, where it is defined by the author as “a certain nonchalance, so as to conceal all art and make whatever one does or says appear to be without effort and almost without any thought about it”. It is the ability of the courtier to display “an easy facility in accomplishing difficult actions which hides the conscious effort that went into them.’”

It is a studied carelessness – emphasis on studied. Effort is always a very much required ingredient. There are no shortcuts, in style or in magick.

Tell me: do you believe in fashion magick? Have you practiced it (knowingly or unknowingly) and with what results?