You may find this hard to believe, but I have become a picky thrifter.

Is there such a thing? In short, yes.

When I first started thrifting regularly, I used to buy a lot of stuff. No, I mean a LOT. It was the euphoria of finding brand names for dirt cheap; I would get excited over every $5 J. Crew skirt or top because … well, J. Crew at retail prices was “fancy” for my budget at the time whereas $5 was eminently affordable. As I started thrifting more frequently, and finding higher end designer items more often, my frame of reference changed. Mall brands were no longer exciting, but I was still fairly indiscriminating about the designer pieces I purchased. Was a fancy label? If so, 9 times out of 10 I would buy it. Finally, at some point in the last year or so, I reached another turning point. Having thrifted pretty much every designer label imaginable, I don’t get excited about them as I used to. I still buy more stuff than the average bear, but I tend to only stick with things that fit my body, aesthetic and lifestyle – whatever the label.

With that said, my years of thrifting have exposed me to a wide variety of brands, and over time I have developed a list of favourites. I thought it might be fun to share my experiences/thoughts, and hear about yours – there is no better way to expand one’s knowledge and become an ever savvier shopper. So, without further ado and in alphabetical order, my (non-exhaustive, yet!) list:

Acne – For jeans, knits, classic basics. I have thrifted 2 pairs of Acne jeans … for others. This is one of my HG brands to find for myself. The aesthetic would fit at least 2 of my style avatars, and the brand has very, um, devoted fans. They must know something.

Adriano Goldschmied – These are some of the best/most comfortable jeans I’ve ever worn, and I have tried pretty much every brand of designer denim out there. I’ve stopped wearing them as often only because I prefer a non-skinny fit now, and AGs (at least the ones I’ve come across at thrift stores) tend to be very skinny.

Alexis Bittar – My fave jewelry designer. Have never spotted it in a thrift store, but hope springs eternal.

Anthropologie – My love/hate relationship with Anthro is well-documented. I love its aesthetic, though it doesn’t always mesh well with mine anymore, which is a problem – I’m always tempted by pieces I actually have no business buying. With that said, if girly/twee stuff is not your style, Anthro does offer more classic/polished/grown-up pieces as well. My favourite sub-brands are: Maeve (dresses, skirts, tops); Floreat (dresses, skirts); Cartonnier (blazers, pants); Pilcro (jeans, pants); Moth (knits); Sparrow (knits); Sleeping on Snow (knits); Moulinette Soeurs (dresses, skirts).

Aritzia – This may be the height of “basic bitch”-ness, but most of my work wardrobe staple pieces – trousers and blazers, in particular – come from Aritzia. The style is conservative enough for my business-casual office, but also modern/updated enough to fit my current (minimalist) aesthetic. Personally, I avoid the actual stores as much as possible; the atmosphere feels snobby, I hate the semi-communal changing rooms, and the layout makes it impossible for me to ever find something I like. Also, retail prices are high for the quality (imho), and the return policy sucks. There are lots of Aritzia pieces to be found in local thrift stores, at consignment, and online.

Attilio Giusti Leombruni (AGL) – The most comfortable flats, period. Some styles are quite unattractive, so don’t be put off; they don’t all look like that. If you’re able to get a (like new or new) pair for under $100, it’s a good deal for the quality you’re getting.

Burberry – I’m not saying you need a $2,000 trench coat. But if you can find Burberry for under, say, $500 – you grab it. I’m a convert to the notion that good quality outerwear, like good quality footwear, is what makes a real difference when it comes to looking polished.

COS – Office basics for a minimalist aesthetic. I don’t think the quality is anything to write sonnets about, but if BR or J. Crew are not your (style) speed when it comes to workwear, this may very well be.

Club Monaco – Slightly more upscale version of Banana Republic. The vibe is kind of a mix between J. Crew and Artizia.

Dries Van Noten – For statement pieces, when you want to feel like a million bucks. Incredible prints and tailoring/draping. Not frequently spotted in the wild, but always worth the wait.

Eileen Fisher – Closet staples for your inner woman-of-a-certain-age (no matter what your actual age). When you want to look slouchy (and be comfortable AF), on purpose. Retail prices are high, but I think EF tries to be ethical (clothes made in the USA, fabric recycling, etc.) so you pay that premium; I recommend waiting for sales or buying secondhand. Quality is good, and most pieces can be hand-washed. In fact, I learned a lot about laundering from EF care labels.

Equipment – Famous for their silk skirts. I don’t wear a lot of button-up shirts, but I do like my butterfly print version from Equipment a lot. I find their sizing to run large in general.

Ferragamo – For shoes, naturally. Very good quality, decent comfort level (the Varina ballet flat excepted). Not all designer brand shoes are worth their prices, when it comes down to quality. Ferragamo shoes are better than most; see also Jimmy Choo and Manolo Blahnik. (Feet are fussy, so this is a category that comes with a whopping YMMV disclaimer.)

Fossil – For good quality leather bags that are relatively inexpensive. Better, in my opinion, than Kate Spade and the like.

J Brand – Next to AG, this used to be my denim go-to brand. I like the quality but, as with AG, I’ve pivoted away from their core styles.

J. Crew – Their general aesthetic is too preppy/generic for my current style, but I still keep an eye out for their shoes. Always check to make sure the shoes are from the retail version, not factory; the latter are not real leather. Their pumps, on deep sale or at thrift prices, are decent value and typically fairly comfortable. Footwear aside, I also like their costume jewelry. Some is too trendy, but they also have interesting pieces that are decent quality.

Jimmy Choo – Not everyone agrees, but I like the quality and comfort of JC shoes. My black patent pumps are probably over 6 years old, and still going strong. They do require the heel tip replaced every so often, but the cost is minor. I wouldn’t pay full retail prices for these (or any designer shoes, to be honest) but I would easily spend up to $200 on a classic pair because I think they’re worth that much.

Judith & Charles – Canadian brand, similar to Theory. Good for workwear, particularly for more conservative business casual or business formal offices.

Kelsi Dagger – For loafers. I know that’s a really specific niche, but I thought I would mention it because cute loafers are not always easy to find. I’ve worn my pair to death over the last couple of years and they’re still in good shape. I’ve seen a bunch of other KD flats at the thrift store, and the aesthetic is always on point (though, sadly, not in my size, sigh).

Madewell – For jeans, and basic staple pieces. Madewell is my current denim obsession. Surprisingly good quality, and really cool styles. I say “surprising” because it’s a sister company to J. Crew, and I don’t like J. Crew denim.

Manolo Blahnik – Comfortable, classic pumps; see my comments above regarding shoes.

Marc Jacobs – My favourite “everyday” bags. I love the thick, pebbled leather of MbMJ (and some MJ) bags – it’s soft and smooshy, and just the best. Their bags are pretty classic and minimally branded for the most part. They’re not trendy, but also not un-trendy, if that makes sense. You can and will use these bags for years without looking “so like insert-year” at any point.

Marni – For cool/interesting shapes and statement pieces. Marni falls into the “ugly chic” category as far as I’m concerned, so it may or may not be your cup of tea.

MaxMara – For outerwear, luxe office wear, and costume jewelry. Definitely splurge territory unless you luck out at the thrift store.

Mulberry – For iconic bags that are not too trendy. The quality is great, especially in older styles made from goatskin leather. As someone who is obsessed with the hardware used in bag design, I love the many varieties of distinctive snaps and closures that Mulberry uses for their bags.

Oak & Fort – Similar to COS and Aritzia, but even slouchier/baggier.

Phillip Lim – For workwear with a twist – interesting details and prints; a feminine take on minimalism.

Rag & Bone – Skinny and coloured denim, casual pieces with a hipster/minimalist aesthetic. Quality, IMO, does not justify retail prices, but they’re worth picking up secondhand.

Rebecca Taylor – Also for workwear, also with a ladylike vibe. A lot of their pieces are too frilly for me, but I’ve found some winners in the past. If you like the Chanel-esque look of tweed jackets, Rebecca Taylor has a ton of “updated takes” on that style.

Rick Owens – For your inner minimalist who likes architectural elements in their clothing.

Sam Edelman – For boots, and specifically the Petty and the Penny boots. Good quality, classic styling.

Smythe – Sharply tailored blazers, most famously worn by Duchess Kate.

Stuart Weitzman – Great quality shoes (including boots) at a lower price level than Blahnik, Choo, etc. I find SW shoes to be very comfortable.

Ted Baker – For statement prints, especially florals. Similar to Clover Canyon. The clothes are typically a “lot of look” (I.e. bold) – perfect for any maximalista out there.

Theory – For work-wear staple pieces, natch.

Tibi – Mostly dresses, often in interesting prints.

Tracy Reese – Dresses and skirts, with a more grown-up version of the Anthropologie aesthetic.

Vanessa Bruno – For “cool girl chic” pieces.

Vince – Mostly for knits. I’m still waiting to find one of their famous cashmere pieces.

Zara – For the occasional wild card. The quality of Zara pieces is all over the map, but it’s possible to find true gems. Because Zara copies anyone and everyone out there, it’s hard to pinpoint its aesthetic; I have often been drawn to pieces at the thrift store because they looked “designer” only to find out that it was, you guessed it, Zara.