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What I Wore: June 1-10, 2018

Butterfly Action

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These are some good trousers, you guys. I recently thrifted two identical pairs in different colours, and I am chuffed. It’s a tapered, slim fit which is a nice tweak on the “skinny pants” silhouette of recent years. This style is called the “Lou Taper” by Cartonnier. I may or may not be actively looking for other colours on eBay, ahem. Paired with my new Louise et Cie loafers, this is a very “garçonne chic” outfit and a slightly whimsical vibe for the Prince.

 Retro Chic

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This outfit is certainly more “ladylike” than any of my style avatars, which might make it seem like an odd choice for a highlight post. I could have added a bunch of extra accessories to try to take it into Bohemian territory, but I loved the simplicity of the colour scheme and the clean lines. So, in a way, it does suit my current aspirations.

I get a ton of comments on IG every time I wear this skirt, so I’ll mention the details again here in case anyone is interested: the brand is Floreat, and it fits true to size, waist-wise; I am 5’7 and the hem comes down past my knees – not quite midi length but close. Because the solid lining is a bit shorter, however, the skirt doesn’t fall into “dowdy” territory, without leaning too far in the opposite (revealing) direction.

Neo-Floral

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I spotted this faux-layered sweatshirt at my local consignment store a while back, and was immediately drawn to it. After much deliberation, I decided to pass on it because I wasn’t convinced the style fit my current aesthetic. Fast forward a few weeks, and I saw it again. On sale. It was a sign, I decided. And here we are, outfit and all. The sweatshirt is a nice, easy way to elevate a basic casual Friday look. I was worried that the floral applique was full-on twee, but I’ve since concluded that it doesn’t cross the line; it’s bold, for sure, but it’s not especially cute – and “cute” is what I’m generally trying to avoid. I know, that probably sounds arbitrary as hell but it’s a system I’ve worked out in my head at least, I assure you. Let’s just go with it.

A Thrifter’s Compendium of Brands

You may find this hard to believe, but I have become a picky thrifter.

Is there such a thing? In short, yes.

When I first started thrifting regularly, I used to buy a lot of stuff. No, I mean a LOT. It was the euphoria of finding brand names for dirt cheap; I would get excited over every $5 J. Crew skirt or top because … well, J. Crew at retail prices was “fancy” for my budget at the time whereas $5 was eminently affordable. As I started thrifting more frequently, and finding higher end designer items more often, my frame of reference changed. Mall brands were no longer exciting, but I was still fairly indiscriminating about the designer pieces I purchased. Was a fancy label? If so, 9 times out of 10 I would buy it. Finally, at some point in the last year or so, I reached another turning point. Having thrifted pretty much every designer label imaginable, I don’t get excited about them as I used to. I still buy more stuff than the average bear, but I tend to only stick with things that fit my body, aesthetic and lifestyle – whatever the label.

With that said, my years of thrifting have exposed me to a wide variety of brands, and over time I have developed a list of favourites. I thought it might be fun to share my experiences/thoughts, and hear about yours – there is no better way to expand one’s knowledge and become an ever savvier shopper. So, without further ado and in alphabetical order, my (non-exhaustive, yet!) list:

Acne – For jeans, knits, classic basics. I have thrifted 2 pairs of Acne jeans … for others. This is one of my HG brands to find for myself. The aesthetic would fit at least 2 of my style avatars, and the brand has very, um, devoted fans. They must know something.

Adriano Goldschmied – These are some of the best/most comfortable jeans I’ve ever worn, and I have tried pretty much every brand of designer denim out there. I’ve stopped wearing them as often only because I prefer a non-skinny fit now, and AGs (at least the ones I’ve come across at thrift stores) tend to be very skinny.

Alexis Bittar – My fave jewelry designer. Have never spotted it in a thrift store, but hope springs eternal.

Anthropologie – My love/hate relationship with Anthro is well-documented. I love its aesthetic, though it doesn’t always mesh well with mine anymore, which is a problem – I’m always tempted by pieces I actually have no business buying. With that said, if girly/twee stuff is not your style, Anthro does offer more classic/polished/grown-up pieces as well. My favourite sub-brands are: Maeve (dresses, skirts, tops); Floreat (dresses, skirts); Cartonnier (blazers, pants); Pilcro (jeans, pants); Moth (knits); Sparrow (knits); Sleeping on Snow (knits); Moulinette Soeurs (dresses, skirts).

Aritzia – This may be the height of “basic bitch”-ness, but most of my work wardrobe staple pieces – trousers and blazers, in particular – come from Aritzia. The style is conservative enough for my business-casual office, but also modern/updated enough to fit my current (minimalist) aesthetic. Personally, I avoid the actual stores as much as possible; the atmosphere feels snobby, I hate the semi-communal changing rooms, and the layout makes it impossible for me to ever find something I like. Also, retail prices are high for the quality (imho), and the return policy sucks. There are lots of Aritzia pieces to be found in local thrift stores, at consignment, and online.

Attilio Giusti Leombruni (AGL) – The most comfortable flats, period. Some styles are quite unattractive, so don’t be put off; they don’t all look like that. If you’re able to get a (like new or new) pair for under $100, it’s a good deal for the quality you’re getting.

Burberry – I’m not saying you need a $2,000 trench coat. But if you can find Burberry for under, say, $500 – you grab it. I’m a convert to the notion that good quality outerwear, like good quality footwear, is what makes a real difference when it comes to looking polished.

COS – Office basics for a minimalist aesthetic. I don’t think the quality is anything to write sonnets about, but if BR or J. Crew are not your (style) speed when it comes to workwear, this may very well be.

Club Monaco – Slightly more upscale version of Banana Republic. The vibe is kind of a mix between J. Crew and Artizia.

Dries Van Noten – For statement pieces, when you want to feel like a million bucks. Incredible prints and tailoring/draping. Not frequently spotted in the wild, but always worth the wait.

Eileen Fisher – Closet staples for your inner woman-of-a-certain-age (no matter what your actual age). When you want to look slouchy (and be comfortable AF), on purpose. Retail prices are high, but I think EF tries to be ethical (clothes made in the USA, fabric recycling, etc.) so you pay that premium; I recommend waiting for sales or buying secondhand. Quality is good, and most pieces can be hand-washed. In fact, I learned a lot about laundering from EF care labels.

Equipment – Famous for their silk skirts. I don’t wear a lot of button-up shirts, but I do like my butterfly print version from Equipment a lot. I find their sizing to run large in general.

Ferragamo – For shoes, naturally. Very good quality, decent comfort level (the Varina ballet flat excepted). Not all designer brand shoes are worth their prices, when it comes down to quality. Ferragamo shoes are better than most; see also Jimmy Choo and Manolo Blahnik. (Feet are fussy, so this is a category that comes with a whopping YMMV disclaimer.)

Fossil – For good quality leather bags that are relatively inexpensive. Better, in my opinion, than Kate Spade and the like.

J Brand – Next to AG, this used to be my denim go-to brand. I like the quality but, as with AG, I’ve pivoted away from their core styles.

J. Crew – Their general aesthetic is too preppy/generic for my current style, but I still keep an eye out for their shoes. Always check to make sure the shoes are from the retail version, not factory; the latter are not real leather. Their pumps, on deep sale or at thrift prices, are decent value and typically fairly comfortable. Footwear aside, I also like their costume jewelry. Some is too trendy, but they also have interesting pieces that are decent quality.

Jimmy Choo – Not everyone agrees, but I like the quality and comfort of JC shoes. My black patent pumps are probably over 6 years old, and still going strong. They do require the heel tip replaced every so often, but the cost is minor. I wouldn’t pay full retail prices for these (or any designer shoes, to be honest) but I would easily spend up to $200 on a classic pair because I think they’re worth that much.

Judith & Charles – Canadian brand, similar to Theory. Good for workwear, particularly for more conservative business casual or business formal offices.

Kelsi Dagger – For loafers. I know that’s a really specific niche, but I thought I would mention it because cute loafers are not always easy to find. I’ve worn my pair to death over the last couple of years and they’re still in good shape. I’ve seen a bunch of other KD flats at the thrift store, and the aesthetic is always on point (though, sadly, not in my size, sigh).

Madewell – For jeans, and basic staple pieces. Madewell is my current denim obsession. Surprisingly good quality, and really cool styles. I say “surprising” because it’s a sister company to J. Crew, and I don’t like J. Crew denim.

Manolo Blahnik – Comfortable, classic pumps; see my comments above regarding shoes.

Marc Jacobs – My favourite “everyday” bags. I love the thick, pebbled leather of MbMJ (and some MJ) bags – it’s soft and smooshy, and just the best. Their bags are pretty classic and minimally branded for the most part. They’re not trendy, but also not un-trendy, if that makes sense. You can and will use these bags for years without looking “so like insert-year” at any point.

Marni – For cool/interesting shapes and statement pieces. Marni falls into the “ugly chic” category as far as I’m concerned, so it may or may not be your cup of tea.

MaxMara – For outerwear, luxe office wear, and costume jewelry. Definitely splurge territory unless you luck out at the thrift store.

Mulberry – For iconic bags that are not too trendy. The quality is great, especially in older styles made from goatskin leather. As someone who is obsessed with the hardware used in bag design, I love the many varieties of distinctive snaps and closures that Mulberry uses for their bags.

Oak & Fort – Similar to COS and Aritzia, but even slouchier/baggier.

Phillip Lim – For workwear with a twist – interesting details and prints; a feminine take on minimalism.

Rag & Bone – Skinny and coloured denim, casual pieces with a hipster/minimalist aesthetic. Quality, IMO, does not justify retail prices, but they’re worth picking up secondhand.

Rebecca Taylor – Also for workwear, also with a ladylike vibe. A lot of their pieces are too frilly for me, but I’ve found some winners in the past. If you like the Chanel-esque look of tweed jackets, Rebecca Taylor has a ton of “updated takes” on that style.

Rick Owens – For your inner minimalist who likes architectural elements in their clothing.

Sam Edelman – For boots, and specifically the Petty and the Penny boots. Good quality, classic styling.

Smythe – Sharply tailored blazers, most famously worn by Duchess Kate.

Stuart Weitzman – Great quality shoes (including boots) at a lower price level than Blahnik, Choo, etc. I find SW shoes to be very comfortable.

Ted Baker – For statement prints, especially florals. Similar to Clover Canyon. The clothes are typically a “lot of look” (I.e. bold) – perfect for any maximalista out there.

Theory – For work-wear staple pieces, natch.

Tibi – Mostly dresses, often in interesting prints.

Tracy Reese – Dresses and skirts, with a more grown-up version of the Anthropologie aesthetic.

Vanessa Bruno – For “cool girl chic” pieces.

Vince – Mostly for knits. I’m still waiting to find one of their famous cashmere pieces.

Zara – For the occasional wild card. The quality of Zara pieces is all over the map, but it’s possible to find true gems. Because Zara copies anyone and everyone out there, it’s hard to pinpoint its aesthetic; I have often been drawn to pieces at the thrift store because they looked “designer” only to find out that it was, you guessed it, Zara.

Intentional Shopping Diaries: Ralph Lauren Capsule, part one

As you may recall, one of my goals for the year was to shop more intentionally. I want to focus on pieces that are high quality and meaningful in the context of my personal style journey; this is the only way to bring real value to my already highly-curated wardrobe. I have been working to identify some of these pieces, and part of my focus has been dedicated to curating a Ralph Lauren “capsule” that embodies those aspects of the RL ethos which most resonate with me. I’ve been looking over the collections from the past 20-30 years (and re-reading my favourite book about Papa Ralph) and homing in on looks and trends that align with my avatars, then identifying the key pieces required to translate those looks into outfits for my own life. These are the kinds of pieces I want to include in my capsule.

But that was only part of the process. Over the last few years, I’ve added a fair bit of RL clothing to my closet. (This comes from a number of brand lines under the Ralph Lauren umbrella, including blue label, Polo Ralph Lauren, LAUREN Ralph Lauren, Denim & Supply, and Chaps; for convenience, I refer to all of them as RL.) So the other part of the process involving going through those clothes and picking out the “key pieces”, so I could map out what the existing capsule looked like.

Here is how things stand:

Wool tweed blazers and sweater vests are cornerstones of my Historian avatar. I am obsessed with my RL ones:

As far as blazers go, I have enough for my outfit needs. That is not to say that I’ll never buy another RL blazer again — if I come across one at the thrifts, I probably will — but I am not adding this as an item on my intentional shopping list. When it comes to sweater vests, I’m a bit on the fence; I would like one or two additional ones in different (brighter) colour palettes, but this isn’t a high priority because I already have a decent selection to work with. I am leaving this off my intentional shopping list for now, but may revisit later if/when other, more meaningful items have been found.

Next, we have a bit of a mix: another sweater vest, a classic oversized men’s shirt, patterned sweater, and a selection of southwest-inspired pieces.

Based on recent observations, I know I need a similar oversized shirt but in white. Now, this doesn’t have to be RL specifically, and because it’s a fairly generic item, I am going to focus on sourcing it at the thrift store. Chunky, patterned sweaters are a different story. Ralph Lauren is famous for his knitwear, and there are several pieces I would like to add to my capsule, including a Polo bear sweater, and some Victoriana-style knits similar to his 80s collections (a floral intarsia sweater, a lace-trimmed cardigan, etc.). I say “similar” because, while I would love to own some original 1980s pieces, I would also be happy with latter iterations of those styles; the brand is well-known for referencing its own history, so there can be multiple versions of a particular trend from different eras.

Last but certainly not least, we have the skirts.

I think you all know how I feel about skirts. Ralph Lauren skirts, in particular, are some of my favourites (and I have a lot of amazing skirts in my closet!). I wear them a lot and they are a backbone for all 3 of my avatars. I have been editing my skirt collection for months now, to make room for the ones I love the most. And also room to add a few more, because I’ve had a couple of specific pieces on my radar for a while now. (The good news is that my daughter now fits the same size as me, so I am passing a few of my older faves on to her. Her style isn’t the same as mine, but I am hoping there’s some common ground when it comes to skirts, haha!).

Which brings me to my first intentional purchases of the year.

The first one was, what else, a skirt — from Ralph Lauren’s short-lived Country line.

Quite apart from being vintage RL with a prairiecore vibe, it is a very “me” skirt in many other ways. The silhouette is one of my faves: a full, ankle-length skirt with cinched waist and lots of volume. (My other fave skirt silhouette is the long column, like the brown tweed RL skirt above.) I have an obsession with patterns of pink cabbage roses on blue backgrounds; highly specific and totally unexplainable — I don’t even like chintz that much, generally speaking! The fabric is a linen-cotton blend, and there is so much of it! The twirl factor is off the charts. I fell in love with this skirt last summer, when my friend Josh wore it to my clothing swap. I knew immediately that it was RL, and I also knew that finding it would be a challenge. I spent months meticulously trawling Poshmark and eBay for listings, and in all that time, I only ever found one.

Luckily, it was in my size. Not so luckily, it was kind of pricey. The listing was set as Buy It Now, with no offer option. I watched the listing. And then re-watched it, 3 or 4 times, as it went unsold and relisted. The seller never dropped the price, and never sent me any offers on it. I hemmed and hawed for MONTHS. In fact, in the process of hemming and hawing, I ended up buying a different RL floral skirt I found on eBay while waiting for this one to either drop in price or pop up in another listing. You may remember that story; it’s the brown, pink and blue patchwork number in the photo above. While I have no regrets about buying that skirt — it’s amazing in its own way, and patchwork-style skirts are another RL category I would like to expand in my closet — it didn’t fill the hole in my heart for the rose floral skirt.

Eventually, in the game of chicken between me and the seller, I blinked first. A week into the new year, I decided to pull the trigger. By then, I knew that I would feel pretty devastated if the skirt sold; the chances of another one popping up again soon in my size — not to mention for a lower price — were relatively low. The price was an important consideration, actually. The market for vintage RL is hot right now, and I don’t see any signs of it cooling off. That patchwork skirt? The same style in a slightly different colorway popped up in a new listing a couple of months after I purchased mine; it was almost $50 more than what I paid for mine. The price of the rose floral skirt was also higher than what I paid for the patchwork skirt (which was already higher than I’m using to paying for, well, any clothing these days). With shipping, it was $130CAD. But, with the concept of intentional shopping in mind, I decided it was worth it.

So, almost 8 months after I first saw it, I finally bought the skirt. And you know what? I have no regrets. (Even though I got burned on customs … but that’s a story for next week.) It is a beautiful piece I know I will treasure for a long time. I’ve already worn it. I couldn’t wait for summer.

Another recent additional to my RL capsule was, strictly speaking, a 2023 purchase but I am adding it here because it fits the intentional shopping criteria.

This piece is vintage blue label RL, likely from the 80s. It’s 100% cotton and has a cozy, almost flannel-like feel. And it has that Victorian vibe that I want to have represented in my capsule. This blouse will work well, I think, with quite a few of my skirts. I paid $25 for it, which is frankly a steal these days. I got it from a local vintage reseller I met through Poshmark a while ago, who has a great eye for vintage boho pieces and who always offers amazing deals. As she travels to the US and visits flea markets and thrift stores there, I’ve asked her to keep an eye out for me for RL pieces. It’s good to have a network!

Come back next week for part 2 of my intentional shopping diaries, and a kinda epic eBay story.