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Intentional Shopping Diaries: Ralph Lauren Capsule, part one

As you may recall, one of my goals for the year was to shop more intentionally. I want to focus on pieces that are high quality and meaningful in the context of my personal style journey; this is the only way to bring real value to my already highly-curated wardrobe. I have been working to identify some of these pieces, and part of my focus has been dedicated to curating a Ralph Lauren “capsule” that embodies those aspects of the RL ethos which most resonate with me. I’ve been looking over the collections from the past 20-30 years (and re-reading my favourite book about Papa Ralph) and homing in on looks and trends that align with my avatars, then identifying the key pieces required to translate those looks into outfits for my own life. These are the kinds of pieces I want to include in my capsule.

But that was only part of the process. Over the last few years, I’ve added a fair bit of RL clothing to my closet. (This comes from a number of brand lines under the Ralph Lauren umbrella, including blue label, Polo Ralph Lauren, LAUREN Ralph Lauren, Denim & Supply, and Chaps; for convenience, I refer to all of them as RL.) So the other part of the process involving going through those clothes and picking out the “key pieces”, so I could map out what the existing capsule looked like.

Here is how things stand:

Wool tweed blazers and sweater vests are cornerstones of my Historian avatar. I am obsessed with my RL ones:

As far as blazers go, I have enough for my outfit needs. That is not to say that I’ll never buy another RL blazer again — if I come across one at the thrifts, I probably will — but I am not adding this as an item on my intentional shopping list. When it comes to sweater vests, I’m a bit on the fence; I would like one or two additional ones in different (brighter) colour palettes, but this isn’t a high priority because I already have a decent selection to work with. I am leaving this off my intentional shopping list for now, but may revisit later if/when other, more meaningful items have been found.

Next, we have a bit of a mix: another sweater vest, a classic oversized men’s shirt, patterned sweater, and a selection of southwest-inspired pieces.

Based on recent observations, I know I need a similar oversized shirt but in white. Now, this doesn’t have to be RL specifically, and because it’s a fairly generic item, I am going to focus on sourcing it at the thrift store. Chunky, patterned sweaters are a different story. Ralph Lauren is famous for his knitwear, and there are several pieces I would like to add to my capsule, including a Polo bear sweater, and some Victoriana-style knits similar to his 80s collections (a floral intarsia sweater, a lace-trimmed cardigan, etc.). I say “similar” because, while I would love to own some original 1980s pieces, I would also be happy with latter iterations of those styles; the brand is well-known for referencing its own history, so there can be multiple versions of a particular trend from different eras.

Last but certainly not least, we have the skirts.

I think you all know how I feel about skirts. Ralph Lauren skirts, in particular, are some of my favourites (and I have a lot of amazing skirts in my closet!). I wear them a lot and they are a backbone for all 3 of my avatars. I have been editing my skirt collection for months now, to make room for the ones I love the most. And also room to add a few more, because I’ve had a couple of specific pieces on my radar for a while now. (The good news is that my daughter now fits the same size as me, so I am passing a few of my older faves on to her. Her style isn’t the same as mine, but I am hoping there’s some common ground when it comes to skirts, haha!).

Which brings me to my first intentional purchases of the year.

The first one was, what else, a skirt — from Ralph Lauren’s short-lived Country line.

Quite apart from being vintage RL with a prairiecore vibe, it is a very “me” skirt in many other ways. The silhouette is one of my faves: a full, ankle-length skirt with cinched waist and lots of volume. (My other fave skirt silhouette is the long column, like the brown tweed RL skirt above.) I have an obsession with patterns of pink cabbage roses on blue backgrounds; highly specific and totally unexplainable — I don’t even like chintz that much, generally speaking! The fabric is a linen-cotton blend, and there is so much of it! The twirl factor is off the charts. I fell in love with this skirt last summer, when my friend Josh wore it to my clothing swap. I knew immediately that it was RL, and I also knew that finding it would be a challenge. I spent months meticulously trawling Poshmark and eBay for listings, and in all that time, I only ever found one.

Luckily, it was in my size. Not so luckily, it was kind of pricey. The listing was set as Buy It Now, with no offer option. I watched the listing. And then re-watched it, 3 or 4 times, as it went unsold and relisted. The seller never dropped the price, and never sent me any offers on it. I hemmed and hawed for MONTHS. In fact, in the process of hemming and hawing, I ended up buying a different RL floral skirt I found on eBay while waiting for this one to either drop in price or pop up in another listing. You may remember that story; it’s the brown, pink and blue patchwork number in the photo above. While I have no regrets about buying that skirt — it’s amazing in its own way, and patchwork-style skirts are another RL category I would like to expand in my closet — it didn’t fill the hole in my heart for the rose floral skirt.

Eventually, in the game of chicken between me and the seller, I blinked first. A week into the new year, I decided to pull the trigger. By then, I knew that I would feel pretty devastated if the skirt sold; the chances of another one popping up again soon in my size — not to mention for a lower price — were relatively low. The price was an important consideration, actually. The market for vintage RL is hot right now, and I don’t see any signs of it cooling off. That patchwork skirt? The same style in a slightly different colorway popped up in a new listing a couple of months after I purchased mine; it was almost $50 more than what I paid for mine. The price of the rose floral skirt was also higher than what I paid for the patchwork skirt (which was already higher than I’m using to paying for, well, any clothing these days). With shipping, it was $130CAD. But, with the concept of intentional shopping in mind, I decided it was worth it.

So, almost 8 months after I first saw it, I finally bought the skirt. And you know what? I have no regrets. (Even though I got burned on customs … but that’s a story for next week.) It is a beautiful piece I know I will treasure for a long time. I’ve already worn it. I couldn’t wait for summer.

Another recent additional to my RL capsule was, strictly speaking, a 2023 purchase but I am adding it here because it fits the intentional shopping criteria.

This piece is vintage blue label RL, likely from the 80s. It’s 100% cotton and has a cozy, almost flannel-like feel. And it has that Victorian vibe that I want to have represented in my capsule. This blouse will work well, I think, with quite a few of my skirts. I paid $25 for it, which is frankly a steal these days. I got it from a local vintage reseller I met through Poshmark a while ago, who has a great eye for vintage boho pieces and who always offers amazing deals. As she travels to the US and visits flea markets and thrift stores there, I’ve asked her to keep an eye out for me for RL pieces. It’s good to have a network!

Come back next week for part 2 of my intentional shopping diaries, and a kinda epic eBay story.

What I Wore: January 2023, part 3

Details: Ralph Lauren shirt, vest & skirt, vintage belt (all thrifted), J. Crew shoes (retail, old)

Thoughts: This shirt/vest combo is one of my faves; I’ve worn it before with pants, but I like it even more with this skirt. The brown makes the blue really pop. This skirt was one of my luckiest thrift finds — vintage RL stuff is becoming increasingly rare at the thrifts, especially nicer pieces like this wool skirt. The silhouette is one of my faves (full, ankle-length skirts being the other). If we are going to try to keep track of these things, I would consider this a Historian outfit.

Details: H&M shirt, Frame blazer, vintage belt (all thrifted), Maeve skirt (Poshmark), J. Crew shoes (retail, old)

Thoughts: I am obsessed with this outfit formula: full skirt, shirt, blazer, and statement belt. It’s inspired by (what else) a Ralph Lauren runway look from the early 80s. I just love the juxtaposition of dressy blazer and cottagecore-y skirt, and plan to play around with it a fair bit. A statement belt is the perfect finishing touch. Trailblazer vibes all the way!

Details: J. Crew shirt & vest, Gap blazer, H&M pants, J. Crew shoes (all secondhand)

Thoughts: This outfit was all about the subtle pattern mix created by the blazer/vest combo. I love those two patterns together, and built the rest of the outfit around the same colour pattern. Otherwise, the formula is one of my go-tos: shirt, vest, blazer, pants. Standard Historian template!

Details: Ralph Lauren turtleneck and sweater, Nine West jacket, Cotton Ginny belt (all thrifted), Banana Republic jeans (retail)

Thoughts: This is a pretty basic outfit but I looooved the way the jacket and patterned sweater looked together. So while this might have been a basic formula, it was not a boring outfit. This jacket and this pair of jeans have been real wardrobe workhorses for me this season; I find myself constantly reaching for them which feels very satisfying. I want my whole closet to give me that feeling (and it’s close!). Putting this look into the Trailblazer category.

Details: Oak & Fort turtleneck (swap), Jacob cardigan, Babaton pants, Oak & Fort coat, Asos boots (all thrifted), Ralph Lauren belt (Poshmark), Coach bag (trade)

Thoughts: I like this vintage cardigan a lot, but I’ve been struggling with the length and resulting silhouette. I tend to wear either short, cropped cardigans or really long ones (past the hip). This length is tricky to me because I’m not used to it. So I decided to try something different and belt it. The result wasn’t too bad, if I say so myself. It has a bit of a Bohemian vibe which is neat, because I tend to associate that avatar with dresses and skirts.

Details: Jacob vest, Marc Cain skirt, Barbara Bui jacket, Chie Mihara shoes (all thrifted)

Thoughts: One more Historian outfit for you, this one with a slight “dark romance” vibe to it. I wanted to pick up the golden accents from the vest, so I chose this jacket because of the cool collar detail and cuffs. To be honest, I probably should have worn this with the Ralph Lauren skirt from the first outfit above — the silhouette would have been more “me” — but my first instinct is always to pair a long jacket with a short skirt. Blame Cake! Added these sheer black tights to try something different (aka not my usual opaque ones) and I’m not sure I love the look with a skirt this short, but maybe it’s something I need more time to adjust to.

What I Wore: January 2024, part 1

Details: Oak & Fort turtleneck, Tahari shirt, Ralph Lauren vest & skirt, vintage belt, Dooney bag, Laredo boots, Nine West jacket (all secondhand)

Thoughts: This outfit was so bang-on the general direction of my current style heading into 2024. I’m planning a post to update my avatars, but you shouldn’t be surprised to see more of this. This is precisely the kind of layering I’m loving right now — at least while the weather allows — because it gives depth and visual interest to the outfit. The trick is picking the right layers, but this combo of thin, black turtleneck + chambray shirt + knit vest + jacket works really well. I’ve been lucky to have more time to wear my fall jackets than usual this year, though I suppose “lucky” is probably not the right word for it. I’m expecting that January and February will revert to historical norms (we can only hope, we need snow so badly, as weird as that sounds) so I’ll be saying goodbye to this amazing leather jacket for a while. I’ve worn it with some many things already — jeans, dresses, and now skirts — and it has yet to let me down. This skirt is another wardrobe superstar for me, and an all-season one at that.

Details: Wilfred sweater (retail), Amaryllis coat, Babaton pants, Fossil belt, ASOS boots, Stella & Max bag (all secondhand)

Thoughts: Brought back a little (or a lot of) colour into my outfit with this brilliant cobalt blue coat; I started there but didn’t stop. I love pairing blue and yellow, so I threw a few different things into the mix. The scarf and the bag seemed like a good match as well, mirroring the same geometric pattern. And I decided to stick with brown as the grounding neutral here instead of black, as it works so nicely with this shade of navy.

Details: Tommy Hilfiger vest, Gap shirt, Ralph Lauren belt (all secondhand), Banana Republic jeans (retail)

Thoughts: A very simple but satisfying outfit! Remember how I mentioned before that this sleeveless mock-neck sweater (it’s really more like a vest!) is so handy for layering? Here’s another good example. I wanted the velvet shirt to be visible so it had to be the top layer, but I also wanted some textural contrast. Enter the vest, which looks like a sweater but isn’t — so easy to layer under the shirt! Add a good pair of jeans and a belt, and you have yourself an outfit to which Papa Ralph would give the thumbs up (or so I like to think).

Details: vintage cardigan, Marc Cain skirt, Ports International coat, Canadienne boots, Coach bag (all secondhand), Hermes scarf (from mom)

Thoughts: Funny story about this coat: a lady stopped me at the thrift store and told me that I had to buy it because I looked so good in brown. I think Ports is generally good value for the money, and this is a classic duffle-style coat in excellent condition (and 100% wool) so why not? I bought it … but later, on further reflection, I realized that it’s not really my style. I think it looks great with short skirts — as in this outfit — but I don’t wear short skirts very often. This was a reminder that I cannot let my focus slip when I’m thrifting; I need to be intentional and highly selective at all times. Luckily, this purchase wasn’t a total loss, as I have a few friends who are interested in the coat — I’m sure it will work out for one of them. But, lesson learned!

Details: Equipment shirt, Higher State dress, Silverado jacket, Chico’s belt, Laredo boots (all secondhand)

Thoughts: As I was running out of time to wear warmer weather outfits, I had to sneak in one more “winter prairie” look featuring this wonderful coat that my friend Sherry gifted me. In case you are wondering, the layering here was base tank top + shirt + (long sleeved) dress + coat. Not a walking outfit, for sure, but plenty warm for errand-running in a car. The layering also allowed me to up the visual interest by adding the pop of contrasting pattern at the neck. I kept the colour palette consistent so it wouldn’t be too distracting.

Details: Jacob cardigan, Ines de la Fressange x Uniqlo shirt, Line sweater, Oak & Fort jeans (all secondhand)

Thoughts: I guess you could say that I’m still wearing your grandpa’s style, in this case his cardigan. Though, to be fair, this vintage Jacob cardigan is most likely from the 90s, so more like to have belonged to one of your parents … or, if you’re my age, maybe it was, ummm, yours. Ahem. I do wish this cardigan was a bit shorter because I prefer a more cropped silhouette with my high-waisted jeans and skirt, but I loved the overall vibe and couldn’t pass it up at the thrifts when I found it a few weeks ago. Would I still buy it today, if I were to apply my more discriminating lens? I think I would, both for its vibe but also for the nostalgia factor. The silhouette is something I can work on; perhaps it will push me to be a bit more adventurous and try some new styling tricks.