Month: October 2023

Skinny Jeans, Cold Dead Hands: Learning to Love (or Live) with Trends

The r/FemaleFashionAdvice sub-Reddit has never been a destination for incisive fashion discussion, but it does, among other things, offer a good sampling of the Average Person’s secret fashion worries. FFA abounds with posts asking for advice on whether one looks too old, too young, too fat, too skinny, too rich, too poor … and how to look more or less of those things, depending on the poster’s mood and unacknowledged biases. It’s kind of exhausting, tbh. And that’s not all. Another topic about which posters fret an inordinate amount is trends. What’s trendy, what’s not. Looking dated, along with being old (a moving target generally positioned around age 30), is possibly the Worst Fashion Sin one can commit as far as the FFA commentariat is concerned. The flip side of that conviction, and equally fiercely held, is a devotion to certain trends.

Spend any significant amount of time on r/FemaleFashionAdvice and you will encounter the phrase “they can pry my skinny jeans out of my cold dead hands” with almost reassuring regularity.

It was so ubiquitous for a while that “cold dead hands” became something of a meme, not only on the FFA circlejerk sub-Reddit, but also on the main sub-Reddit as well. At least millennials have a sense of humour, right?

Perhaps it’s a measure of how little I love jeans relative to other people, but I found the transition between jean trends fairly painless. I’m not bragging, honestly. Trend transitions in general should never be a cause for fretting. The process looks something like this:

  1. I spot a new style of something. Jeans, shoes, doesn’t matter. This might be on a runway, on a Fashion Girlie’s Instagram, in a magazine, in a store, or on the streets of my town. There are many phases and entry points to a trend as it ripples out from the centre. Unless you’re working in the fashion industry, it doesn’t matter that much when you become aware of a trend. If it’s late in the game, it’s worth considering how much you want to “invest” in that trend (financially and emotionally, hah!).
  • I may not be sure if I like this new style. If it’s not an immediate “yes”, I sit with it before I reject it. Sometimes the eye needs time to adjust to something new. Other times, on calm and measured reflection, it’s just a “no”. Not everything is for everyone. This is ok. One is not any more or less stylish for not adopting every trend out there.
  • Okay, maybe I do like it. Off to the thrift stores to see if I can find something similar to experiment with.
  • I got it and I love it. Time to stop buying the old style and focus on the new.
  • New style is fully embraced, but always with a light grasp. No cold, dead hands. I enjoy what I love, but I’m always open to new ideas.

I also don’t immediately throw out all the existing items of the old style in my closet. If I have several, I might pare down to one or 2, but I keep the best versions (best quality, best fitting, etc.). Trends are cyclical, always. It might take a long time in some cases, but things come back. Just look at bootcut jeans. If you have storage room, keeping good quality clothes (that fit you well) past their current “trend date” is a good approach in terms of sustainability.

I have been on the wide-leg denim wagon for well over a year now, and I still have a couple of pairs of skinny jeans in the back of my closet. And let me tell you an even darker little secret: I still wear them sometimes.

Here are some thoughts to chew over.

One.

Skinny Jeans As Outfit are currently “out” of fashion. That is to say: if the outfit is centered around skinny jeans, and skinny jeans are the first and maybe only thing you notice about that outfit … it’s out of step with current fashion.

But Skinny Jeans As Style Building Block are a different, much more fluid story.

People get very hung up on the idea of things looking dated. But it’s always a combination of items that looks dated – in the sense of being suggestive of an era that isn’t currently trending – not necessarily the items themselves. I’ve done enough wardrobe remixing in my time to know that the same piece can be used to create outfits reminiscent of very different eras.

I promise you that you can wear skinny jeans in Our Year of The Lord 2023 and absolutely not look dated. Will you look trendy? No. But you can look cool AF in a way that isn’t tied to any particular trend or era. That’s called personal style.

I saw a male-presenting person on Instagram rock black skinny jeans with a majorly oversized chunky knit cape thing and tall platform shoes in a way that referenced both Rick Owens and Lenny Kravitz with a healthy dose of Gen Z “no f*cks given” attitude, and let me tell you: that was fly as hell.

Two.

I sometimes wear Skinny Jeans As Outfit. I mean, I don’t post about it on Instagram because it’s the equivalent of that brunch plate nobody really cares about. There are times when function triumphs over style, though, and skinny jeans are damn handy when the snow is a foot deep and I need pants that I can tuck into my quilted winter boots. They’re also handy when I’m gardening in the fall, and I need long pants that won’t flap around or get easily damaged and will protect my legs from rogue thorns and other hazards.

It’s good to recognize the utilitarian value of clothes. Even as someone who generally looks at clothes as a tool of creative self-expression, I know there is more to it than that. Just because something isn’t trendy, doesn’t mean it hasn’t got a place or purpose in one’s closet and life.

I leave you with these parting thoughts:

Love the things you love. Wear the things you love. Use them as tools of authentic self-expression. Use them as practical tools for living.

Know there are other tools out there. Some useful to you, some not. Sometimes, you won’t know which until you try.

Honour the tools that have served you well. They may serve you well again. Be prepared to put them down from time to time. It will be okay, I promise.

What I Wore: September 2023, part four

Details: Rebel Sugar mesh top (gift), Zara top (thrifted), BCBG belt, Carven skirt (both Poshmark), selfmade necklace

Thoughts: I love this outfit a lot and I can’t believe I didn’t think to pair this skirt and belt before. Long-line skirts like this one remain one of my style obsessions. Some people might think the extra length would only serve to overwhelm me — I am not especially tall (5’7) with short legs — but I think it actually makes me look taller (which I love, for the same reason).

Details: Emmy Deveaux bodysuit, Vero Moda blazer, Nicole Miller skirt, BR belt (all thrifted), J. Crew shoes (retail)

Thoughts: I wore this outfit to the office recently. Yes, I went into the office for once. It was nice to see everyone but the commute was awful. Once again, thankful I’m WFH … even if it means nobody usually gets to see my awesome outfits. Well, apart from all of you. Anyway, I had put this blazer away last year, as I had stopped reaching for it. It doesn’t really suit my Historian or (summer) Bohemian avatars. But I’m glad I held on to it because as soon as I thrifted this skirt, I knew this was the first outfit I wanted to try. They’re made for each other! I also think this blazer might serve me well with some 90s-inspired outfits so it’s sticking around for a bit longer.

Details: Club Monaco turtleneck, Gap sweater (both thrifted), Banana Republic jeans (retail)

Thoughts: How perfectly does this turtleneck match up to this sweater? It creates this cool trompe l’oeil effect that looks like I’m wearing a rainbow vest over a striped turtleneck. But, actually, the sweater has sleeves! That’s it. That’s the whole reason for this outfit. I am easily amused.

Details: Oak & Fort top, vintage vest (both thrifted), Ralph Lauren skirt (gift), Rafael Alfandary necklace (eBay), Holt Renfrew belt (retail)

Thoughts: This was a pretty literal translation of a runway look from (IIRC) Chloe. Or Celine. Sorry, I can’t remember anymore. But this is basically my Fall 2023 Bohemian avatar come to life. Big “Jo March” vibes. I loved it. Easy and simple and comfortable.

Details: H&M x Moschino sweatshirt, Philip Lim skirt, Only & Sons jacket (all thrifted)

Thoughts: I dusted off a couple of pieces I hadn’t worn in a while — this skirt and this sweatshirt — because I thought the jacket would bring them off together into a cool, casual outfit. And I was right! Sorry, that sounds insufferably self-congratulatory, doesn’t it? But I felt great in this outfit, and I continue to be impressed by the versatility of this jean jacket. I haven’t worn jean jackets in a few years, but the combination of the men’s (oversized) cut and the colour make this particular jacket feel really fresh and fun to me.

Details: F21 sweatshirt, Woolrich vest, BDG jeans, Fossil belt (all thrifted), Converse x Woolrich shoes (eBay)

Thoughts: This is the kind of outfit I never felt cool enough to wear as a teenager. Or had the money to purchase, for that matter. I loved wearing it this time around! These jeans were a calculated risk on my part; it’s definitely a cut/design that’s out of my style comfort zone, but I dig how they look. And they are comfy AF.

Retail or Thrift?

I was at the mall recently because Banana Republic was running a 40% off everything sale and I figured it was my best chance to get some of their Argent+Aureus jewelry for a decent-ish price. In case you were wondering, this is what I got:

Stunning, right? My honest review is that the design is fabulous and the stones are beautiful (but only buy in person, because I’ve also seen very blah/grey labradorites being used), but the quality otherwise is very meh. I am skeptical about the durability of the gold tone finish; the ring is already starting to tarnish slightly. At the sale price, this isn’t egregious but I would be deeply wary of buying any of their A+A stuff at full price.

I have been seeing a few comments on Reddit about the “renaissance era” of Banana Republic so this was a good opportunity to check it out. Some Redditors are calling it “affordable MaxMara” which struck me as a stretch, tbh. Maybe MaxMara quality has declined lately, idk. Current BR doesn’t quite strike me as being anywhere near that quality level, though it does appear to be a lot better than the last 10 years or so. The designs are much improved as well, at least in my opinion. What’s for sure is that BR prices have become very aspirational. Most pants and skirts seem to start around $200 and go up from there. On sale, with extra discounts, it’s worth checking out, as I do enjoy the elevated aesthetic they are currently offering.

But, as always, when I go to the mall, the question in my head is “can I thrift that for less”? I like to go into stores – BR and Zara are my faves for this – to see what’s new and figure out whether I’m likely to find it for less secondhand.  So let’s have a look!

Leather skirt

This retails for $650CAD at BR. This silhouette is relatively easy to find in vintage iterations, with or without a front slit. Vintage leather is usually great quality; the only thing to watch out for is cigarette smells which can be hard to get rid of. I have a Gap leather skirt from 2000 which is almost identical and cost me less than $25. Danier is another brand worth keeping an eye out for.

Same story with this leather mini skirt, which retails for $530CAD. This flared silhouette will be a little bit harder to find than a basic mini, but there are similar options out there. For example, this LizSport skirt listed for $36 on Poshmark is quite nice:

Verdict: Thrift

Waistcoat

Vests and waistcoats are very trendy right now. This one retails for $190CAD at BR. I am happy to report that thrift stores always have a decent selection of waistcoats, including ones inspired by men’s suiting. I recently thrifted a vintage wool Mexx vest for around $5; I love its 90s vibe:

Verdict: Thrift

Wide Leg Pants

These wool pants retail for $240CAD at BR. The fact that they’re not even lined makes me side-eye the price a bit, but the design is really good. This is a category where I find that vintage falls short. I do have a pair of early-2000s, wide leg wool pants from Aritzia – which are lined!! – but they are a very low-rise so the silhouette is noticeably different. I have not been able to find older vintage trousers that replicate this current version of the wide-leg pant, and vintage wool pants on the whole are hard to find (polyester is more common). This is an item I may keep an eye on, to possibly catch on clearance sale at the end of the season. I like this silhouette a lot, so it would be worth a little “investment” because I can see myself wearing it for at least a few years.

Verdict: Retail

Oversize Shirting

I saw this at Zara but there are versions available all over the place, at various price points. But why buy retail when you can thrift a vintage (or new) men’s shirt and get that same oversized vibe and coolness factor for a fraction of the price. Thrift stores are overflowing with men’s shirts – WFH has decreased the demand substantially, I imagine. Just keep an eye on the collar to make sure they’re in good condition.  I have added a few vintage Ralph Lauren shirts to my collection including this one, which is my fave:

Verdict: Thrift

Sheer Things

Sheer skirts, tops and dresses are a big trend this year. They come in many flavours, often with a 90s twist which makes sense because sheer was also a Thing in those days. Some sheer things are easy enough to find at the thrift stores; mesh tops in particular, because they’ve been percolating in the market for a while. Sheer items made of other fabrics (non-mesh) are harder to find. I have not seen a lot of vintage iterations of this trend floating around (no pun intended), perhaps because of the inherent fragility of the materials, perhaps because it was never a trend that achieved full-market saturation so there would be fewer pieces left behind. On the whole, my personal strategy in situations like this is to spend at least a few weeks checking Poshmark and the thrifts, and if nothing interesting pops up AND I’m still very into the trend, then I will consider retail. In this particular case, by a VERY lucky stroke, I was able to find a nearly identical vintage DKNY skirt on Poshmark; it didn’t end up costing me less than the H&M version above would have, but I am sure the quality is much better (plus, the H&M skirt was sold out everywhere).

Verdict: It’s a toss-up!