I have been getting more and more interested in vintage clothing, especially stuff from the late 80s and 90s. A lot of it is coming back in style/trending right now, and the quality is far superior to what you can find at trendy retailers like Zara and Simmons. Take these high waisted culottes. The tailoring is wonderful – the pleating, front and back, is truly a work of art. They are made out of mid-weight wool that has structure to it but doesn’t feel stiff. They were made in Canada by a brand called Aljean; my guess is sometime in the 80s. They have held up so, so well and fit my current aesthetic perfectly. I tend to wear pants less frequently these days, unless it’s pants that look like skirts. The high waisted silhouette goes well with a cropped jacket, like this ruffled Tabitha number. Overall, this is a simple outfit, but it’s the special details that make it, well, fun.
I know I said I don’t wear pants very often these days — literally above — but last week was an exception, okay? I am loving the pleating details of this Deletta top at the moment. I usually find gingham too “sweet”, but this black and white version doesn’t strike me as such. To match its avante-garde(ish) vibe, I paired it with this softly structured boucle Derek Lam jacket. The top also inspired the choice of colour palette: black, white and red. Not cutting edge but always a reliable standby.
Notes: Deletta top (consignment, $11); Derek Lam jacket (thrifted, $12); Aritzia pants (thrifted $8); J. Crew shoes (retail, $80).
Weekend Wear Woes
I have to admit to struggling lately with my weekend wear. I used to rock casual looks the last couple of winters, but since I’ve stopped wearing jeans as often, I feel like I’ve fallen into a rut. I can certainly layer up dresses and skirts to make them weather appropriate for my needs (I am rarely outside for very long), but I find it difficult to make them look interesting; at the end of the day, all you can really see is the massive coat on top. Blogger problems, y’all. Anyway, this outfit was clearly me giving up on that task and embracing what I know well: a fun outfit with jeans.
People ask me all the time about how I know which lesser-known brands are worth picking up at thrift stores – i.e. which are the expensive brands. I go about this in one of 2 ways. Some brands I recognize because I follow fashion industry accounts on social media and occasionally leaf through fashion magazines; I have a lamentably large capacity for storing mostly useless information, so I can recall brand names I saw in passing even years later.
Otherwise, every time I spot signs of a higher-quality garment but don’t immediately recognize to brand label, I look it up on my phone and see if there are any listings from sites from Lyst or Shopbop, or high-end retailers like Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus or Saks.
I thought it might be useful to share some of my recent (and not so recent) brand discoveries and/or labels that aren’t very well-known but which are worth watching out for; I hope this will serve as a resource for fellow thrifters/online bargain hunters.
Antipast – Created by textile designers Junko Jinushi and Kyoko Kato in 1991. Name references Italian appetizer that “sets anticipation for the meal to come”. Made in Japan. This skirt from the brand is one of my faves:
Oska – German brand started in 1997. Their website states that they have fully integrated production, the majority of which is done by 2 Czech partner companies. My skirt is, indeed, made in the Czech Republic:
Ovate – Canadian company founded in 2010. According to the website, all pieces are entirely handcrafted by 2 people (including the owner Audrey Cantwell) at their Montreal studio. All pieces are sold directly through their website or via the studio, and are made in very small quantities. I feel even luckier to have found one of their dresses:
Boo Radley – Australian brand founded in Melbourne in 2005. Sold in boutiques in Australia and New Zealand. According to their website, they manufacture their own clothes, although I wasn’t able to find a lot more information about that. Based on what I’ve seen locally (in thrift stores), they do lots of nice linen pieces – a sort of Eileen Fisher aesthetic. I have this one pair of linen pants I quite like:
Marc Cain – German brand founded in 1973. I would say it’s like a European Tory Burch in terms of aesthetic and retail price point. They do a lot of interesting prints (but nothing too gaudy) and details. Manufactured primarily in European countries; their knits are apparently now made at their own factory in Germany. I own several pieces, including this blazer (made in Romania):
Akris/Akris Punto – Swiss luxury brand founded in 1922. This is by no means a little-known brand – they do runway collections, after all – but for some reason it’s not as popular as, say, MaxMara. It’s basically a fancier, pricier MaxMara. Akris Punto is the “relaxed sportwear” line – i.e. the slightly less fancy side. Everything is made in Switzerland and, yeah, the quality is bananas. I currently only own one pair of pants from Akris Punto but this is a brand I consider a major score:
Crea Concept – French brand offering contemporary womens wear founded circa 2004. I could not find a lot of information about the company or its manufacturing practices online, but it’s sold at major department stores in the UK and boutiques like Blu’s here in Canada. I have found a few cool pieces at the thrift store including this silk skirt:
Barbara Bui – French high-end designer, who presented her first collection at Paris Fashion Week in 1987. Less boho than Isabel Marant, but still very much French girl chic. I think most pieces are made in France, including my cool wool-fringe skirt:
Suno (defunct) – American brand founded in 2008 (closed down 2016). It was designed in New York and made by local artisans in countries where the brand sourced fabrics (including Romania, Italy and Kenya). It won several CFDA awards, including for Womenswear Ethical Production in 2013. The skirt I have thrifted has the most beautiful hems I have seen on any garment:
by Malene Birger – Danish designer brand founded inn 1997. Similar aesthetic to Theory or Vince, similarly priced at retail. My tunic is made in China, but the website didn’t list a lot of concrete information about manufacturing practices:
Filippa K – Swedish company founded in 1993. Advertised as sustainable Scandi fashion. I recently thrifted a merino wool cardigan from this brand; although it’s made in China, the quality feels quite good. Retail prices appear to be on par with Vince, Rag & Bone, etc.
Modern Vice – Designer footwear brand founded and handmade in New York. Appear to be most famous for their boots, like the Jett style (which I was lucky enough to thrift recently); retail prices are $400USD and up.
Sarah Pacini – Designer brand from Belgium founded over 20 years ago. All pieces are made in Italy. Personally, it reminds me of a softer, more romantic Rick Owens aesthetic. One of my fave designers. I have thrifted quite a few pieces over the years, but this leather vest (secondhand from Red Pony Consignment) is one of the best:
Lida Baday (defunct) – Canadian high-end fashion designer; brand founded in 1987, going out of business in 2014. According to Wikipedia, she was called Canada’s equivalent to Calvin Klein (i.e. a classic, feminine, minimalist, sophisticated aesthetic). Her pieces hold up very well, and are great for work wear. I would put it on par with MaxMara. I have thrifted several pieces, including this blazer:
Iris & Ink – A contemporary womens wear brand launched in 2012 by The Outnet. Apparently the “Iris” part was inspired by Iris Apfel, one of the creative director’s favourite fashion icons. It’s not a high-end designer, but it’s marketed as “affordable luxury” (meaning retail price point starting around $100 and up). I recently spotted but didn’t thrift a lamb leather top from the brand.
Vanessa Bruno – French luxury designer who launched her label in 1996. I believe she has or had a diffusion line called Athe. According to Lyst, the “epitome of luxe, carefree Parisian style”. I no longer own this dress, but it was a very fun one:
Sea – New York-based brand founded in 2009. Similar aesthetic to Isabel Marant but with a NYC cool girl twist. I once spotted but didn’t thrift a blazer, which I still kind regret leaving behind. The finishing details were very, very nice.
I have limited the above list to brands I have personally spotted (or thrifted) here in Edmonton, so this is not exhaustive by any means. There are at least a dozen more lesser known brands that I have on my BOLO (be on the lookout) list, including Sezane, Polene (bags), Staud, and others.
If you have your own “hidden” gems, please share in the comments.
This burgundy Dynamite piece is actually a vintage dress. I know it’s vintage from the old-school label, the fact it was made in Canada, and because I can’t button it on my hips even though it’s a size 6. Ah, vanity sizing. Anyway, the 90s are back in style and after some initial hesitation, I AM HERE FOR IT. The key for me – as a person who remembers the 90s very well – is to take the retro piece (original or inspired) and put my own 2019 spin on it. So I am wearing this dress as a vest not just because I can’t button it, but because fashion. Okay? That’s my story and I’m sticking with it.
Butterflies make everything a little more romantic, no? I don’t wear this jacket nearly enough considering how awesome it is, and I blame that bottom strap. It’s heavy, always gets twisted out of place, and to add insult to injury, it frequently bangs into some tender part of my side/hip. It’s the jacket’s only design flaw that the strap is attached to the back and cannot be removed. (My Mackage moto jacket has that option and the first thing I did was remove the strap. Heaven.) Anyway, I do still love it and its mix of toughness and softness. I try to mirror that dichotomy with the skirt (soft) and boots (tough). I’m digging the result.
Notes: Moth sweater (thrifted, $7); Club Monaco turtleneck (retail, $32); Aqua jacket (secondhand, $150); Sarah Pacini skirt (thrifted, $6.50); Ecco boots (thrifted, $20).
All The Angles
This outfit has a lot of interesting angles thanks to the sweater – that party in the back! such an Anthro touch, but in the best way possible – and this very long, structured, wool skirt. The skirt is actually an extra long maxi that I hike up and wear like a strapless dress, which contributes to a tent-like effect I like very much in this particular content. It’s like a midi swing-style dress, except not super swingy because of the wool. Anywaaaay, what I’m trying to say is that I enjoy looking like a weird geometry experiment. And red shoes are always fun.
