A Quick Primer on Fashion Magick

am not a huge Potterhead, but I recently fell down a rabbit hole of Slytherin-inspired fashion – green and black, cool textures, what more could a woman ask for? – and that’s how I eventually found out about fashion magick. It’s a thing. And apparently I’ve been a witch for some time? Wait, what?

Let’s back up.

As best as I can tell – and, necessary disclaimer, I don’t have any actual witch training – fashion magick appears to be subset of (or possibly another name for) glamour magic. Glamour magic is, simply put, the creation of an illusion. Our contemporary usage of the word “glamour” is somewhat different, but not entirely unrelated. Excuse this brief Wikipedia detour, but I like the quote and wanted to share it:

“Virginia Postrel says that for glamour to be successful it nearly always requires sprezzatura—an appearance of effortlessness, and to appear distant—transcending the everyday, to be slightly mysterious and somewhat idealised, but not to the extent it is no longer possible to identify with the person. Glamorous things are neither opaque, hiding all, nor transparent showing everything, but translucent, favourably showing things.”

Anyway, back to magick. A glamour is a spell or enchantment whose purpose is to manipulate the perceptions that other(s) may have of a person or object. There are various ways to cast a glamour, and various reasons why you would want to do it – some more ethical than others. As best as I can tell from my brief foray into the subject matter, there are 3 key steps to casting a glamour: setting the intention, visualizing the result, and willing it (reinforcing it). You can read more on Tumblr, hah.

Ok, but what about the fashion part? Well, obviously, clothing is a tool that can be used to cast a glamour! Per Gabriela Herstik in an article for i-D Magazine:

“a glamour is being intentional with your style. It’s a way for you to take control of the way you’re perceived. It’s a way to disguise what is beneath. Personal style is exactly what a glamour is – it’s a way for you to shape how others see you.”

Fashion magick is more than just wearing clothes; it’s wearing clothes with intention.

If old school glamour is about “favourably showing things”, fashion magick is about choosing what things to show. I guess standing in one’s closet asking oneself “who do I want to be today” is not just a question of indecisiveness, after all. Speaking for, um, a friend.

Although I am generally a skeptical person when it comes to things that cannot be scientifically measured or proved, I do believe in the transformative power of clothes. In glamour, if you will. All major fashion icons cast glamours over us, the general public. They create a powerful persona – an identity – crafted in large part based on their sartorial presentation. Do we really know who Audrey Hepburn was? No, but we all think we do. Is Tilda Swinton a benevolent alien goddess in exile on earth? No, but I am, like, 97.5% sure of it anyway. These two women might not have a lot in common, but they each had/have a very distinctive personal style. They’re both excellent at that 3rd step of (magickal) glamour-casting — sustaining the image (illusion). Not every fashionable woman in history has done that; some are merely well-dressed – not iconic.

I am obviously not in the latter category – and debatably in the former – but reading about fashion magick has reinforced my interest in dressing with intention. I already think a lot about the language of fashion, so this is right up my alley. The right piece, and the right combination of pieces, delight me in the same way as a beautiful turn of phrase. Not everyone thinks about clothing that way, I know; but I am also convinced that, whether consciously or not, most people are far more susceptible to the messages of the medium that we credit it. Don’t worry, I plan to use my powers (such as they are) for good!

One more thing, to bring this full circle back to glamour. I think there is a common notion that true style – the aspirational kind – is effortless. In fact, part of its perceived merit is tied to effortlessness. French girls, etcetera. I couldn’t disagree more. Yes, as with any art form, some people might have an inherent predisposition, an “eye” for it. But Picasso wasn’t born “Picasso, painting genius”; all great artists work at their craft, and if the results look effortless, then that is just proof of their mastery of the craft. Go back to the definition of sprezzatura – per Wikipedia again, because I’m lazy:

“Sprezzatura [sprettsaˈtuːra] is an Italian word that first appears in Baldassare Castiglione’s 1528 The Book of the Courtier, where it is defined by the author as “a certain nonchalance, so as to conceal all art and make whatever one does or says appear to be without effort and almost without any thought about it”. It is the ability of the courtier to display “an easy facility in accomplishing difficult actions which hides the conscious effort that went into them.’”

It is a studied carelessness – emphasis on studied. Effort is always a very much required ingredient. There are no shortcuts, in style or in magick.

Tell me: do you believe in fashion magick? Have you practiced it (knowingly or unknowingly) and with what results?

What I Wore: September 28-October 4, 2019

Biker Ballerina

It always makes me laugh when r/FemaleFashionAdvice refers to “witchy” anything because, 9 times out of 10, it turns out the person means “wearing a lot of black”. I am sure that practicing Wiccans are tired of the rest of us co-opting their terminology. I admit I’m as guilty as any; I like the idea of looking witchy without really knowing anything about being an actual witch. But! Apparently there is something called fashion magick and, guys, I am about to fall down a rabbit hole!

Anyway, in the meantime, I decided not to call this lewk “Biker Witch” lest I unintentionally cause any eye-rolls in my audience. Tulle = ballerina, right? Are there any ballerinas in the crowd? No? Good. Biker Ballerina it is, then.

All kidding aside, this was a super fun outfit. I layered my distressed, vaguely dystopian cropped sweater over a very boho eShakti dress, thereby changing its vibe entirely. The leather jacket upped the coolness factor (if you ignore my inherent uncoolness, that is) and added some much-needed warmth. Mornings have been so nippy here lately – we’re talking 40F on a good day, sigh. I have to say that this Mackage jacket is the real deal when it comes to warmth; the leather is so thick and there must be some extra insulation built in somehow, because I was nice and toasty.

Notes: eShakti dress (thrifted, $14); Art Point sweater (thrifted, $7); Mackage jacket (thrifted, $50); Clark booties (retail, $60).

Headmistress in Charge

I love this outfit so much even if it looks like a nothingburger on first glance. All the details please me. The crisp white, bejeweled collar. The midi dress that’s comfortable like pyjamas. The subtle herringbone vest. The classic Manolo pumps. I feel like a Woman Who Seems Very Responsible And Boring But Actually Has A Very Interesting Secret Life. I don’t, but I like to pretend that I do. That is the power of clothes, my friends.

Notes: J. Crew top (thrifted, $6); Elizabeth & James vest (thrifted, $18); Ovate dress (thrifted, $8.50); Manolo Blahnik (eBay, $250ish?).

Formula on Repeat

I have worn this sweater + scarf combo more times than I can count, and I never get tired of it. This light mauve/lilac colour is one of my favourites, and I wish it was easier to find because I want more of it in my closet. Can we call this “millennial purple” and get it declared a trend? Please and thank you. The scarf is a couple of years old now, but proof that fast fashion isn’t always crappy quality. The skirt is a recent thrift find and I really dig its design. It’s a faux wrap effect created by the front of the skirt folding back on itself. The fabric is a thick silk with nice weight to it which, hey, I will take over polyester any day of the week. The brand (Crea Concept) was not familiar to me when I bought the skirt, but I trusted my my assessment of the quality and bought it anyway; I’ve since learned that it’s a French contemporary designer brand (for reference, sold at places like Blu’s). Definitely worth the $8.

Notes: Moth sweater (thrifted, $7); Crea Concept skirt (thrifted, $8); Zara scarf (retail, $30ish?); Stuart Weizman boots (thrifted, $19).

Boyish Charm

I’ve worn some version of this outfit before but it still works and why reinvent the wheel? Especially on a Friday. I love the woodsy colour palette; the brown tweed works very harmoniously with the mossy green of the sweater even if brown-and-green is not a combination that often springs to mind. The metallic loafers add just a bit of pizzazz to what would otherwise be a straight copy of the outfit that my husband wears to work every day.

Notes: AllSaints sweater (thrifted, $8.50); Zara blazer (thrifted, $9.50); Aritzia pants (thrifted, $8); Louise et Cie loafers (retail, $35).

Personal Style Avatars: Fall/Winter 2019-2020 Update

I know I’ve talked about this a lot already, but French Vogue (runway collections) is the gift that keeps on giving. Me inspiration, and you blog posts. Hope you’re not sick of hearing about the F/W 2019-2020 collections yet, because I’ve got another one coming your way.

I touched on some of the fall trends that piqued my interest a while ago, so today I want to take a slightly different approach. When it comes to the way that I approach my personal style, the style avatar system remains my frame of reference. [One more hat tip to Redditor “lumenphosphor”, whose comments on r/FemaleFashionAdvice sparked my personal style revolution last year.] It may not be an approach that works for everyone, but if you consider clothing a form of self-expression – and find that you have a lot of different aspects to express – you may find it helpful. I love clothes (duh!) and in the past I used to struggle to distinguish between clothes I admired and those I actually wanted to wear. Understanding my avatars eliminates that struggle. I can look at an outfit now and immediately know if it’s something that suits my personal style, or not.

[Sidenote: when it comes to shopping, it’s a little more complicated because, while I can easily tell if a piece of clothing works for one of my avatars in principle, other factors impact whether that piece is a long-term keeper or not. Wearability and versatility are sometimes hard to predict in the store; the downside of thrifting is that it’s not conducive to planned purchases – you have to make quick decisions, on the spot. Not all of them are winners.]

The interesting thing is that, since I chose my avatars last year, I’ve been finding inspiration for them everywhere. They are not static concepts but ever-evolving, well, characters. In fact, to keep them relevant, they have to evolve. With that in mind, I thought it would be a good exercise to look at the F/W 2019-2020 collections and see what new inspiration they might yield for my avatars.

The Prince

There were a few options that looked promising for this avatar, but in the end I kept coming back to this outfit from the Tom Ford collection.

Black is the “power colour” for the Prince, but I am starting to think about trying other monochromatic looks. Dark green, in particular, has been on my mind lately. It evokes similar feelings for me as black, but has a slightly more mysterious edge to it. The red of this outfit would be too overpowering for me, but I would love a deep plum or smoky purple as an alternative. What I also love about this runway look is the mix of textures. Matte, shiny, velvety. Texture adds so much depth to an outfit, especially a monochrome one. It also looks luxe AF, which suits the Prince nicely.

As with the rest of my discussion here, it’s not my intent to go out and buy a bunch of new clothes at the mall. I will wait and see what I can find in thrift stores, with a special focus on velvet and satin pieces, and coloured leather – especially in dark green and plum tones.

Key notes: silhouette remains unchanged; update colour palette; focus on texture.

The Artist

I’ve posted this Brendan Maxwell runway look before, but it bears repeating:

This is a perfect look for the Artist: architectural lines, minimalist, subtle romanticism. There is a slight gothic undercurrent that also feels very “of the moment” for the Artist. Other things I love: the pairing of a light colour with stark black; waist-defining belt over volume; long layers on top; long, swirly skirt. Long skirts, in particular, are a current obsession of mine. I’ve been looking for vintage pieces more and more, because the last time maxi skirts were a Big Thing was some years ago. Vintage Ralph Lauren is one of my current Holy Grails; I’m even eyeing some pieces on eBay, although prices are a bit higher than I’d like.

Key notes: cinched in long layers; long, flowy skirts.

The Adventurer

This avatar has fallen a bit out of favour, so to speak, lately and it has a lot to do with my preference for skirts over pants, especially jeans – those used to be a cornerstone of this avatar. But, wait! Because the Celine runway has sparked a whole new love affair:

Those are actually culottes, not a skirt, but it works for me either way. Why did I not think to pair all my Adventurer tweeds with skirts? Well, I guess sometimes you just need someone else to show you the way. I just love, love, love everything about this look, including the slight retro vibe. Luckily, I thrifted a pair of tall slouchy boots last year, which will be in heavy rotation this year. I will also be looking for some cropped culottes – or regular ones that could handle some DIY cropping.

Key notes: update silhouette with skirts (and culottes); tall boots rather than ankle boots; more femme than boyish.

The Bohemian

Funnily enough, this was the avatar I saw the least on the fall runways. Nothing really jumped out at me, except for this Etro look:

Also, a runner-up spot for this Ralph Lauren ensemble, mostly because I am obsessed with the pants:

I’m very into my plaid skirts at the moment (plaid for fall, groundbreaking) so I will be playing around with the first inspo. I am actively hunting for a gold pleated skirt to bring some extra shine to my closet; in the meantime, I think it’s time to pull out the metallic Opening Ceremony pants I thrifted this past summer and give them a whirl. Otherwise, I will continue to do what I’ve been doing – using the Bohemian avatar as a bit of a wildcard. I think the vibe will be more “luxe boho” than “hippie boho” heading into the winter – richer fabrics and darker colours, that slight gothic vibe.

Key notes: plaid & metallics as “accent” pieces.

As always, I would love to hear from you: Have you tried the style avatar approach? Do you take inspiration from runway collections and, if so, what is your process?