am not a huge Potterhead, but I recently fell down a rabbit hole of Slytherin-inspired fashion – green and black, cool textures, what more could a woman ask for? – and that’s how I eventually found out about fashion magick. It’s a thing. And apparently I’ve been a witch for some time? Wait, what?
Let’s back up.
As best as I can tell – and, necessary disclaimer, I don’t have any actual witch training – fashion magick appears to be subset of (or possibly another name for) glamour magic. Glamour magic is, simply put, the creation of an illusion. Our contemporary usage of the word “glamour” is somewhat different, but not entirely unrelated. Excuse this brief Wikipedia detour, but I like the quote and wanted to share it:
“Virginia Postrel says that for glamour to be successful it nearly always requires sprezzatura—an appearance of effortlessness, and to appear distant—transcending the everyday, to be slightly mysterious and somewhat idealised, but not to the extent it is no longer possible to identify with the person. Glamorous things are neither opaque, hiding all, nor transparent showing everything, but translucent, favourably showing things.”
Anyway, back to magick. A glamour is a spell or enchantment whose purpose is to manipulate the perceptions that other(s) may have of a person or object. There are various ways to cast a glamour, and various reasons why you would want to do it – some more ethical than others. As best as I can tell from my brief foray into the subject matter, there are 3 key steps to casting a glamour: setting the intention, visualizing the result, and willing it (reinforcing it). You can read more on Tumblr, hah.
Ok, but what about the fashion part? Well, obviously, clothing is a tool that can be used to cast a glamour! Per Gabriela Herstik in an article for i-D Magazine:
“a glamour is being intentional with your style. It’s a way for you to take control of the way you’re perceived. It’s a way to disguise what is beneath. Personal style is exactly what a glamour is – it’s a way for you to shape how others see you.”
Fashion magick is more than just wearing clothes; it’s wearing clothes with intention.
If old school glamour is about “favourably showing things”, fashion magick is about choosing what things to show. I guess standing in one’s closet asking oneself “who do I want to be today” is not just a question of indecisiveness, after all. Speaking for, um, a friend.
Although I am generally a skeptical person when it comes to things that cannot be scientifically measured or proved, I do believe in the transformative power of clothes. In glamour, if you will. All major fashion icons cast glamours over us, the general public. They create a powerful persona – an identity – crafted in large part based on their sartorial presentation. Do we really know who Audrey Hepburn was? No, but we all think we do. Is Tilda Swinton a benevolent alien goddess in exile on earth? No, but I am, like, 97.5% sure of it anyway. These two women might not have a lot in common, but they each had/have a very distinctive personal style. They’re both excellent at that 3rd step of (magickal) glamour-casting — sustaining the image (illusion). Not every fashionable woman in history has done that; some are merely well-dressed – not iconic.
I am obviously not in the latter category – and debatably in the former – but reading about fashion magick has reinforced my interest in dressing with intention. I already think a lot about the language of fashion, so this is right up my alley. The right piece, and the right combination of pieces, delight me in the same way as a beautiful turn of phrase. Not everyone thinks about clothing that way, I know; but I am also convinced that, whether consciously or not, most people are far more susceptible to the messages of the medium that we credit it. Don’t worry, I plan to use my powers (such as they are) for good!
One more thing, to bring this full circle back to glamour. I think there is a common notion that true style – the aspirational kind – is effortless. In fact, part of its perceived merit is tied to effortlessness. French girls, etcetera. I couldn’t disagree more. Yes, as with any art form, some people might have an inherent predisposition, an “eye” for it. But Picasso wasn’t born “Picasso, painting genius”; all great artists work at their craft, and if the results look effortless, then that is just proof of their mastery of the craft. Go back to the definition of sprezzatura – per Wikipedia again, because I’m lazy:
“Sprezzatura [sprettsaˈtuːra] is an Italian word that first appears in Baldassare Castiglione’s 1528 The Book of the Courtier, where it is defined by the author as “a certain nonchalance, so as to conceal all art and make whatever one does or says appear to be without effort and almost without any thought about it”. It is the ability of the courtier to display “an easy facility in accomplishing difficult actions which hides the conscious effort that went into them.’”
It is a studied carelessness – emphasis on studied. Effort is always a very much required ingredient. There are no shortcuts, in style or in magick.
Tell me: do you believe in fashion magick? Have you practiced it (knowingly or unknowingly) and with what results?
Very interesting read! I think fashion does play a large part in how other people perceive you.
And I also agree that what looks effortless does not mean its creation was somewhat easy. Take Ballerinas for example – it takes a lot of hard work for them to make it seem like they move effortlessly around the stage. But there are probably still people with a natural talent that makes it a lot easier for them.
Totally agree. I think the legends have the innate talent to set them apart, but anyone who is a pro at something has to practice, practice, practice (no matter how talented they are to begin with).
Love this. I think I practice it more as a forcefield than as an actual persona: my work clothes need to project interest and beauty but also “untouchable”, meaning, I am so solid and on top of it that you can’t find a weakness. Or I guess I alternate between that and “business, but creative”. I have tried but haven’t been able to name avatars for myself but I know what feelings I want. It’s fun to think of it as actual magic. … also, if I was a witch I’d wear lots of colors. A good read as always!
I love your way of thinking about glamour and the previous commenter’s thought about the forcefield. I suppose I aspire to the first and often use the second.
Your post regarding “glamour” also prompts me to suggest Susanna Clarke’s Jonathan Strange and Mr Norell as a great read.