It’s the festive season so what better time to talk about sequins? As with our sweater discussion last week, not all sequins are equal. Well, actually, at a basic level, sequins are kind of the same: they’re not good for the environment because they’re generally made from fossil-based plastics. They will live in our landfills forever, so the best sequins are the ones which already exist aka secondhand and vintage. It always makes me uncomfortable to see all the new sequin clothing in every store when I go to the mall. More so than other clothing, sequin trends don’t change that much over the years, and the exact same styles that are currently in stores can be found at the thrifts in healthy supply. So if you’re looking to add sequins to your closet — which, as a magpie, I totally understand — always shop secondhand first.

While sequins might all be the same (outside of couture houses, perhaps), the construction of sequin clothing is not all the same. There are 2 things in particular which, in my non-expert-but-sequin-loving opinion, make or break sequin clothing: (1) the manner in which sequins are sewn on, and (2) the backing used for the sequins.

Let’s start with sewing.

If you look closely at a lot of sequin pieces, you will notice that the way in which the sequins are sewn/attached vary widely and that it makes a huge difference in how the overall piece looks. Take this, for example:

This looks like someone spray-gunned sequins onto this shirt. It looks sloppy up close and the garment looks cheap from a distance. Because the sequins don’t sit flat, this is much more likely to be scratchy (especially around the neckline and armholes) and not catch the light in the same way.

Sequins that are sewn onto the garment in a more orderly fashion (rows, for example) and lie flat result in a much nicer-looking garment, IMO. Here is another example:

Nothing special but still miles better than the first photo. But compare it to this piece:

Similar concept but the execution is visibly so much poorer. That white thread – yikes! Looks messy and prone to snags.

Here is a similar design but with somewhat better execution. Still not great (you can see the sequins are lifting in places) but at least they used better thread and more rows to create better coverage and visual appearance.

The above is actually an H&M skirt that I own. It’s probably one of the worst quality sequin pieces in my closet but I’ve kept it because I haven’t found a better quality silver sequin skirt yet. It’s not awful, but it’s not good either. Writing this post made me realize that I probably should just let it go. It’s not a coincidence that I haven’t worn it as much as my other sequin skirts over the years. Compare it, for example, with this (older) H&M skirt I also own:

This is actually one of the nicest sequin pieces I’ve ever found. Look how nicely the sequins are attached. This skirt shimmers like whoa — it looks like a mermaid’s tail in the best way:

Here are 2 more examples of nice sequins; the first is a MICHAEL Michael Kors skirt, the second is a BCBG skirt:

Again, you can see how nice and orderly these are. They’re laid out in rows like the silver H&M skirt but the way the sequins are attached is different — the sequins are attached in 2 places versus just one. It makes them more secure and also flatter.

The second thing to look for is the backing.

On the BCBG skirt above, the sequins are sewn on to silk, which is doubled up to create a kind of built-in lining. This is pretty rare, and it does have some downsides like lack of stretch. Most sequin pieces are backed on some kind of (polyester) mesh, like my H&M skirts:

It’s probably not easy to see from these photos, but the mesh fabric is slightly different too. The silver skirt mesh has no stretch, whereas the black mesh has quite a bit of stretch. This is important because the mermaid skirt is a fitted style (pencil skirt) and the stretch of the mesh allows the skirt to fit more comfortably. The silver skirt is a fuller style, so stretch is less important. If your sequin garment is a form-fitting one, check how stretchy the outer sequin layer is.

I mention the “outer layer” because a separate lining is an absolute must, otherwise the scratchiness factor will be off the charts. Even a lining, if it’s very thin, can be dicey. One of the reasons why I prefer sequin skirts over dresses is because a polyester-lined dress often ends up feeling like a bag of sweat to me, especially if it’s long-sleeved too (whereas I find polyester linings less bothersome on bottoms).

A knit fabric backing is more rare than mesh, but my MK skirt is one example:

This material is also polyester (so it has stretch) but feels softer and less sweaty than the typical polyester used for linings. The downside of this particular skirt is that there is no additional lining; the sequins sit on top of this knit fabric, which sits on your skin. It’s juuust thick enough to not be too scratchy, but it’s not great. An example of cutting corners by a so-called “nicer” brand.

So, to summarize, here is what I look for when buying sequins:

• How securely are the sequins attached? Ideally, they should be neatly sewn and secured with 2 stitches, not just one.
• How do the sequins sit? Ideally, they should lie flat and not stick up in different directions.
• What kind of backing does it have? Mesh backing gives stretch, but there should be a good lining to protect the skin. If sequins are sewn on silk, consider whether it might be worthwhile to size up, since the material will offer little stretch.
• How does the finishing look? This is more of a general tip, but it’s always worth checking how the seams and hems are finished because that’s a good clue to the overall quality of the garment.

Details: Ines de la Fressange x Uniqlo shirt, Massimo Dutti sweater, Gap blazer, Chicwish skirt, Chelsea Crew shoes (all thrifted)

Thoughts: I love the way Molly Goddard incorporates tulle and wool sweaters in her collections, so I have been mining that inspiration for a few years now. Every outfit I try always feel better than the last one, and this continues that trend. It was inspired by a FW 2023 runway look. I am particularly happy with the decision to pair this fair isle sweater with the (vintage!) plaid blazer. It gives a slightly whimsical twist to the usual Historian vibe.

Details: Jeanne Pierre sweater, Mondi skirt (both thrifted), Jimmy Choo shoes (eBay)

Thoughts: Green and red can be a difficult combination to wear; it inevitably reminds people of Christmas. I wasn’t feeling especially festive when I wore this outfit, but I also feel that the chartreuse yellow in the skirt helps to cut down the Christmassy vibe a lot. In fact, this outfit feels more spring-like to me than anything else.

Details: Talbots dress, Frame blazer (both thrifted), Stella & Dot necklace (Poshmark), cuffs (Etsy)

Thoughts: But you know what always feels wintery to me? Dark plaids and velvet. And this outfit has both, in spades. I tend not to wear this style of dress very often these days — and if it had been any shorter, I wouldn’t be wearing this one — but this vintage wool (made in USA) version was hard to resist. When they say “they don’t make them like they used to” … this dress is a prime example.

Details: Wilfred sweater, Everlane pants, Elena Wong jacket, Aimee Kestenberg bag, Arnold Churgin shoes (all thrifted)

Thoughts: When I wear this statement coat, I usually pick a colour palette that harmonizes with or amplifies the yellow. That generally means blues and yellows. This time, I decided to stay more neutral, going with light grey, black and silver. In a way, it allows the coat to shine even more. I like the simplicity, and there is still enough visual interest so it doesn’t feel like a boring outfit to me.

Details: Tommy Hilfiger vest, Marc Cain skirt, J. Crew blazer, Canadienne boots (all thrifted)

Thoughts: I wore this to the second day of my art market; another outfit built around a pair of comfortable shoes. I love the combination of these boots and this skirt along with the tonal tights. I’m not a huge fan of mini skirts, but this is A+. I decided to wear this cotton mock-neck vest because it was really hot at the venue on the first day, and I wanted the option of being sleeveless if the temps warranted it. What I love about this vest is that, under a blazer, it looks like a regular sweater but it’s actually much easier to layer without any bulky sleeves. It has a good weight to it (like a regular sweater) but it’s very breathable too.

Details: Jeanne Pierre sweater (thrifted), Denim & Supply dress, BCBG harness (both Poshmark), Zara (retail)

Thoughts: Same green sweater, I can’t get enough! I was going to use a regular wide belt so I could “tuck in” the sweater and create that separates look (it’s actually a dress) but then I decided to switch it up a bit and use this harness belt instead. Because the sweater is cotton, it’s a lot easier to do this with it than with a thick wool sweater, but it still has enough thickness to work as an over-layer.

Details: Oak & Fort turtleneck, Tse sweater, If By Sea jacket, Tommy Hilfiger jeans, Fossil bag (all thrifted), Laredo boots (consignment)

Thoughts: I know shackets aren’t really a hot trend anymore (though they’re still popular) and it’s ironic that I got one now, when I wasn’t interested in them at all when they were super trendy. What sold me on this one was the colour palette. I adore teal and plaid, and the combination is irresistible. For this outfit, I doubled down on the teal, making it an almost tonal outfit. Doing so makes it a lot more interesting, to me, than it might have otherwise been. And, let’s face it, it’s a pretty basic outfit.

Sweaters are some of my favourite things to thrift and wear, but they are not all made equal. A recent episode of the Clotheshorse Podcast titled “Why (Most) New Sweaters Are (Near) Future Garbage” delves into this topic with fashion industry insider information you will want to hear. I reached the same general conclusion simply through recent hands-on experiences. I touch a LOT of sweaters in the course of my thrifting and, boy, is there a lot of garbage out there. Itchy, thin, plasticky stuff that will inevitably end up clogging landfills for decades to come. I am not going to bury the lede here: the answer is vintage. The best quality sweaters most of us can currently get our hands on (without spending a bazillion dollars) are vintage ones. Pre-2000s sweaters are my personal obsession — more on that later — but quality really fell off a cliff after 2010 or so. Of course, there are good current pieces occasionally to be found, but you need to know what to look for.

So, what do we look for?

First and foremost, fiber content. If you’ve touched enough sweaters in your life — gosh, that sounds naughtier than it is — you’re probably able to tell what they’re made of without looking at a single tag. If you’re not quite there yet, tags can tell you everything you need to know. And don’t underestimate visual cues either.

Take this sweater:

It’s Banana Republic Factory and was tagged at $13.99. It looked like-new, barely worn. But look at those wrinkles! They don’t look like they would steam out easily and if the sweater look that bad on the hanger, what will it look like after a few wears and washes? I immediately guessed that it would be a synthetic blend and I was correct. According to the tag, it’s 60% cotton and 40% rayon/viscose. You would think the cotton content would make this a decent option, but no.

Here is another example:

This is regular Banana Republic, I forget the price tag. Also looked relatively new, minus some minor pilling under the arms. A bit less wrinkly than the first one, but it still looks (and feels) thin and stiff at the same time. The fabric is another blend: 55% cotton, 37% nylon, 8% wool. Compare it to a vintage 100% cotton cable knit sweater I own:

This one has a lovely weight and even some drape to it, and it is 0% itchy or scratchy.

Lest you think I am picking on Banana Republic here, I am not. The sweaters above are FAR from the worst I’ve seen. If anything, I think they are representative of the “better” tier of fast fashion (encompassing most higher end mall brands). Here is another Banana Republic offering, this one made with “Fine Italian Superloft Yarn by Filpucci”:

It looks a lot better, right? The hand-feel was better too, though by no means particularly special. My gut tells me this material would be prone to pilling and require reshaping after every wash (and forget any dryers!). Despite the fancy label, it’s actually also a blend: 45% merino extra fine wool, 25% rayon/viscose, 20% nylon, and 10% cashmere. It’s the rayon and nylon that worries me. Pass.

To prove that I am not picking on Banana Republic, here is a sweater that I did actually buy:

It’s 100% merino wool and I paid $13.99 (less 20% off coupon) which the same price as that very first sweater. But it’s a much better deal. I am not saying this sweater is amazing quality, but it’s not bad. Yes, there are some wrinkles — my fault, I had jammed it in a bag without folding it first — but these ones will come out easily with a quick steam. I personally find merino wool easy to wear right against my skin and it makes for good layers. In general, the smaller the wool fibers, the less itchy it is. Superfine merino wool fibers are relatively small so they are less likely to trigger people with sensitivities. This post from Pendleton explains the different types of wool in more detail. Because this sweater is a thin knit, it’s a piece I would wear under other things or over a tank top, at most; it’s not going to look good over bulkier base layers.

As further proof that I am not targeting specific brands, here is a whooper of a garbage sweater I recently spotted:

I will give it a little bit of credit: it actually looked nicer in person that in these photos, which don’t capture the gorgeous teal colour very well. It was an attractive looking sweater, especially from a distance. But as soon as I touched it, I recoiled. It feels like one of those Scotch Brite dish scrubbing pads. You can tell how itchy it’s going to be from how much the fibers stand up, rather than laying flat. And, no surprise, it is 100% plastic: 60% nylon, 40% metallic. And guess what, it’s Vince. This sweater probably cost at least $300 at full retail. It amused me that the tag mentioned “yarn origin: Italy” like that was somehow going to redeem this mess.

I could go on and on but I want to also talk about my favourite sweaters, so let’s quickly summarize the “best to avoid” list:

• Anything with synthetic content, however small, is a “use caution” situation. I do own some synthetic sweaters myself (chosen purely for aesthetics), but I buy them fully knowing they’re not very good quality and adjust my expectations accordingly. General rule of thumb: if it looks deeply wrinkly on the hanger, it’s a pass.
• Fuzzy sweaters — ditto the ones that look like spun cotton candy — are most likely to be wholly synthetic and while they might feel super soft and appealing, they have short-life span and will require careful laundering to have even a remote chance of looking decent after the first wash. I ain’t got time to baby synthetics, pass.
• Loose knits — the kind with a very open weave — are generally a sign that the brand is cutting corners and probably using cheap materials too. These will not hold up to long-term wear, and will be hard to maintain (for example, much harder to shave down if there is pilling).
• Coarse wool — especially mohair — can be more difficult to wear if you have sensitivities, though it can be a good layering option if you live in a very cold climate. I have a couple of vintage mohair blend sweaters but they are not my favourite because I do find them a bit rough and also too hot.

Ok, now let’s talk about the good stuff! Here is my shortlist before we dive in:

• Cashmere
• Cashmere-cotton (or cashmere-wool) blends
• Merino wool
• Wool-cotton blends
• Cotton

I would add lambswool to the list above but with an asterisk; it can be a bit itchy for me, so it depends on the style and how I plan to wear it. If it’s a chunkier or more oversized piece that I will wear over other thicker layers, it can be a thumbs up; I probably wouldn’t wear lambswool directly against the skin or even over a thin layer.

Cashmere (and cashmere blended with other natural fibers) is something I stock up on whenever I find it. Now, not all cashmere is equal either; the shorter the hairs, the more it’s going to pill. Pilling is an easy fix but nonetheless … some cashmere just feels more luxurious and thick, and that’s what I buy. We are not talking Brunello Cuccinelli here, ok? But Lord & Taylor, Talbots, and Lauren Ralph Lauren all make serviceable cashmere. Depending on the thickness of the material, I wear cashmere as a base layer (if thin) — it feels great against the skin — or as a top layer (if thick). It adds warmth and coziness without the itch factor.

As I mentioned above, merino wool is usually used for thin/fine knit sweaters. I wear them on their own, over very thin base layers (tank tops, thin cotton tops), or under thicker layers if I need extra warmth. Extra fine merino wool turtlenecks are my holy grail (and hard to find!) and are a staple layering piece for me in winter.

Wool cotton blends are a bit of a compromise, but I find them much more wearable than wool synthetic ones. Not my go-to, but a decent alternative; the cotton content can mitigate some of the itchiness factor of wool.

Last but certainly not least: cotton. I know this might be a controversial take, but next to cashmere, cotton sweaters are my absolute favourite. But let me be clear: I am talking about vintage cotton sweaters. The chunky knitted kind. Not the kind that looks like sweatshirt material. This kind:

I cannot say enough good things about these sweaters. They are thick and cozy but never feel suffocating or too hot. I can wear them on warmer days without overheating, and in the depth of winter to feel snug and warm. And they’re not itchy at all! They are super easy to clean — I throw them in the washing machine and air dry them so they don’t lose their shape or stretch out (and they air dry much faster than wool). And the best part — though this is not a big concern in my geography — they are not susceptible to moths.

The bad news is that these cotton sweaters are becoming vanishingly hard to find. My holy grail is pre-2000 cotton sweaters from brands like Gap, Eddie Bauer, LL Bean, Ralph Lauren, and others like these. It annoys me so much that brands have stopped making the same style of sweaters nowadays. I assume it’s a cost issue, but I think this would be something worth paying a premium for. Oh well, I guess I’ll be stalking the vintages ones at the thrift stores instead.