Category: Uncategorized

Things I Wish I Knew When I Was Younger

I’m sure you’ve seen those posts on social media listing 5, 10 or however many things people wished they knew when they were younger. We all have those lists, don’t we? In fact, I’m sure our lists are far longer and broader than what can be covered in an average TikTok, and they likely include things both profound and superficial (but nevertheless useful). It got me thinking about what my fashion-related list would be. Let’s take a look!

Proportions matter. Like a lot of other Gen X/Millennial women, I had a complicated and at times fraught relationship with my body for years. I thought about it, and what it looked like, a LOT but in retrospect I have to wonder whether I actually saw it at all. It wasn’t until relatively recently that I began to figure out some basic but pretty important proportions. I have a long torso, a fairly high-set waist, and violin hips (or “hip dips”) – things which explain why the low-rise trends of the early 00s were a nightmare for me, and also why I look great in high-waisted, flowy bottoms. I also have a comparatively short inseam for my height, which is why cropped pants and petite length bottoms work best for me. I was nearly 40 years old by the time I was able to perceive these aspects of my body clearly and without judgment, and at the same time understand how they impact the way clothes fit me. Before that, whenever clothes didn’t fit properly or didn’t look “right” on me, I always assumed there was a problem … and that problem was something to do with my body. This is, of course, nonsense. All bodies are wonderful and different. If a piece of clothing doesn’t feel right on the body, it’s the clothing that has to change, not the body.

Ignore sizes. Clothing sizes are bullsh*t. The sheer inconsistency means that they are worse than useless as a guide to fit. At the same time, the arbitrary societal values associated with sizing means that they can be very harmful. I remember reading, as a young adult, “tips” in magazines about cutting out the size label from your jeans so no one would know what size you wore. Every time I am reminded of that, my mind boggles afresh – that we could be so concerned about something as utterly improbable as a stranger catching a glimpse (somehow?!) of a tag on inside of our clothing which might (somehow?!) tell them something relevant (!?!?) about us.

But leaving aside that broader discussion, sizing is practically worthless. What matters are measurements: depending on the garment in question, things like shoulder span, bust, waist, hips, rise, inseam, etc. These things tell you how something will fit on your body (assuming you know your own proportions and corresponding measurements). This is very helpful because fit is actually very subjective. For example, just because size A technically fits me, doesn’t mean size A is what I want – perhaps I want that garment to fit more loosely on me than intended by the designer, in which case I am going to need size B. If I know measurements, I am in control and I dictate fit – the clothing doesn’t dictate to me.

Get a steamer. I’ve always hated ironing. Some people love it, good for them. Buying a high-quality steamer changed my life.  I tried a cheap version many years ago, and thought the whole thing was overrated because that steamer couldn’t take out any wrinkles to save its life. Fortunately, I gave steamers another try, spent a bit more money, and got a professional-quality product (Jiffy). It works incredibly well – and fast! – on almost all fabrics; it won’t turn out a shirt as crisply as an iron, but that’s not a drawback for me (I don’t wear dressy shirts very often). Steaming is quick and easy and, as a bonus, can kill most nasties, and refresh clothing between washes.

Learn quality. I wrote about this before, but being able to recognize quality by sight and touch was another game changer for me, especially as a dedicated thrifter. My knowledge of the fashion industry and history is fairly extensive, but I don’t know everything – far from it. The best way to learn is by recognizing what you don’t know … and then reading up about it. It’s happened more times than I can count: I come across a piece that feels good to the touch, see a label I don’t recognize, and Google it – and discover something special and/or add to my store of brand knowledge.

OxyClean for the win. I used to avoid white shirts like the plague – not just because I’m a spill-prone klutz, but also because I was afraid of yellowing. And then I discovered OxyClean and the white shirt fears were history. I could probably expand this into a whole “learn proper laundry care” thing, but I’m by no means a laundry expert, so I will simply add: most of your clothes should not see the inside of a dryer, and if that’s unavoidable, use the lowest heat settings. Laundry care is the key to making things — even fast fashion — last, and is so ignored/underrated.

Nothing (or everything) is timeless. Timelessness is a lie. Not to get philosophical with you, but nothing in this world is impervious to change. Especially fashion! Chasing timelessness in clothing is looking for perfection that doesn’t exist. I am all for mindful consumption, but I am skeptical of things that reek of marketing ploy aimed at obscuring the true nature of what is being consumed. Quality, (true) sustainability, ethical production, things that make your heart sing – these are things worth paying for. Timelessness isn’t worth an extra dime.

Save everything. Okay, this one is maybe not really practical but speaking of the cyclical nature of fashion: everything comes back in style! I don’t have a lot of regrets when it comes to the clothing I gave up over the years, but those few regrets I do have … they are strong! I definitely have become more mindful, not only about what I bring into my wardrobe, but also what I discard. Quality is going down all the time, so the thrifts aren’t going to be a goldmine forever; I plan to rely more and more, in the future, on my archive closet — bringing things in and out of my current wardrobe as trends cycle through.

What I Wore: September 2022, part four

Details: Toni T dickie, Everlane sweater, Ralph Lauren skirt, Ash sneakers (all thrifted)

Thoughts: My favourite fall outfit so far — a few people called it “Wednesday Addams grows up” and I love that. I also got a random compliment on it from a woman in a store parking lot so you know this outfit has presence. I rarely repeat exact outfits head to toe, but this one will be a repeat for sure. Simple, comfortable, totally “me”.

Details: Toni T dickie, Pilcro sweater, Gap jacket, Cartonnier pants (all thrifted), Mia shoes (retail)

Thoughts: Another favourite fall outfit. I love the purple-lavender-whiskey colour palette. This is going to be one of my go-to outfit formulas: button up shirt+sweater+pants (or skirt). Finding this white collar dickie was a true godsend; it allows me to pull off that layered look without any extra bulk. Once the temps nose-dive, I’ll wear a proper white shirt as a layer but, for now, this is just the ticket.

Details: Braemer vest, Ralph Lauren shirt, Zara skirt (all thrifted)

Thoughts: You didn’t think I would forget about vests, did you? No way. It’s time for my fall vests to come out. I’m still a huge fan of them as a “completer piece” for WFH outfits where a jacket feels a bit like overkill most days (but I still want that 3-piece outfit).

Details: Aerie top (retail), Judith & Charles jacket, vintage pants (both thrifted), Stella & Dot necklace (Poshmark)

Thoughts: I am also not forgetting my crop tops! I’ve been thrifting some high waist pants — like this fun patterned pair — that will be perfect for taking this outfit formula into fall and even winter (WFH, remember!). Elastic (high) waist, pull-on pants are the epitome of easy dressing for me; they can be dressed up and down equally easily.

Details: Tabi vest, Tradlands jacket, Babaton skirt, Ferragamo shoes (all thrifted), Echo scarf (consigment)

Thoughts: Finally got to try out a new-to-me brand — Tradlands — thanks to this thrifted jacket. It’s a wide-wale corduroy, which is one of my current obsessions — I love this texture for fall. It’s also a colour that works really well with my fall wardrobe. I thought this scarf was a nice complement to the vest, as they share colours but also offer a bit of contrast.

Details: Wilfred sweater, Ralph Lauren shirt, Babaton pants, Mackage jacket (all thrifted), Mia shoes (retail)

Thoughts: I was going for a monochrome look (these newly thrifted pants are a great match for the sweater I thrifted last spring) and decided to add another colour at the last moment. I think the dark plum jacket complements the blue nicely. As I said, I am obsessed with corduroy at the moment, so I was pleased to find these cord pants in a cropped style that works well with my favourite new shoes (plus, they were only $4!).

Let’s Talk Jeans!

I know jeans can be a fraught fashion topic in some circles today. To skinny jean or not to skinny jean? I am not going to tell you what your answer ought to be. They aren’t trendy (and haven’t been for years) but that only means something if trends are something you choose to care about. I do and I don’t – I’ve talked about this before. I like to know what’s out there so I can better decide what I can use to create the aesthetic I am pursuing. But I’m not adopting the trend unless it works for me, for that purpose.

As it happens, I’ve mostly moved away from skinny jeans in recent years. This past summer, loose-fit boyfriend style jeans were my usual go-to:

With the occasional assist from this barrel-shape/80s mom jean-adjacent pair:

These styles worked better for my summer aesthetic than skinny jeans. I still have a couple of pairs of skinny jeans, and wear them occasionally, but usually for very casual errands (like taking the kids to the park) where aesthetic doesn’t come into play.

Looking at my fall inspo boards, I realized that I needed to consider some other jean styles. Because my fall aesthetic is heavily influenced by the 90s and Ralph Lauren “prep”, I settled on two related styles:

One. The bootcut flare – think Carolyn Bessette Kennedy:

Two. The trouser/palazzo jean:

Initially, I thought I would only need the first kind (in a dark wash, natch). After some further deliberation, I decided that I really wanted to give the palazzo-style jeans a try too, and likely in a lighter wash for diversity.

Some additional considerations:

  • Bootcut flares of the OG variety (late 90s through late 00s) are relatively easy to source in thrift stores. I’ve found a Banana Republic pair that I am currently taking through its paces and deciding whether the fit is precisely what I want. I may end up trying to find something with a slightly more pronounced flare, but we’ll see.
  • Palazzo jeans are not very easy to find at the thrifts, as they were not a super popular/trendy style within the past 10 years. So I am leaning towards possibly sourcing a pair on Poshmark or even retail. Buying a new style online can be tricky though, not only because you need to ensure the proper size fit, but also to gauge whether the style meets one’s exactly requirements (usually from a bunch of stock photos). Wide leg jeans have been popular for a while, but the style I am after is a more specific sub-category of that.
  • Both of these styles need to be full-length, i.e. not cropped, to achieve the desired aesthetic. In particular, because I want to have that elongating effect (and have a short inseam), this means having to consider heel height. In the summer, I tend to wear flats which would pose a problem in this scenario. But for fall, I do have shoes with more of a heel – like my new platform sole loafers, for example, and some of my favourite ankle boots as well.
  • Full length jeans can pose a hazard during wet conditions so I know that these jeans will have a limited time window; I don’t expect that I will be wearing them outdoors come November. This is something to consider when deciding how much money I want to spend on them (answer: not a lot!).

I’m writing all this out because I think it’s helpful when making decisions about adding new pieces to one’s wardrobe to think through stuff like this. Hopefully, it’s helpful to some of you as well; not as a “what you need to buy” post, but as an example of process. I have been trying to be more intentional about what and how I add to my closet, and I’m probably not the only one. Share your tips — and thoughts on jeans! — in the comments.