State of the Wardrobe, 2019 Edition

2018 was the Year of Thrift. Though I have been thrifting regularly for the past 4-5 years, I kicked things up a notch last year. Nearly all of my clothing and accessory purchases (undergarments excluded) were secondhand, the vast majority being thrifted. I can count my 2018 retail clothing purchases on one hand; accessories would require an extra hand or two, mostly because I can’t seem to resist Anthro’s clearance jewelry section.

2018 was also my biggest year for thrifting designer labels. A non-exhaustive list includes YSL, Armani Collezione, Burberry, Manolo Blahnik, Jil Sander, Prada, Zero+Maria Cornejo, Roger Vivier, AllSaints, Smythe, Theory, Vince, by Malene Birger, Sarah Pacini, and Lela Rose. Needless to say, I feel extremely fortunate – nay, spoiled – by the Edmonton thrift scene. As an added bonus, it includes a wonderfully supportive group of fellow thrift enthusiasts and bloggers, who share information and tips freely.

2018 was a year of self-discovery for me, style-wise. I spent the better part of the year refining an aesthetic that feels “just right” in my current phase of life; but I have also come to realize and accept that style – which is a primary mode of self-expression for me – will never be a static concept in my life. It is a constantly evolving thing, reflective of the person I am in the process of becoming.

2018 was a purchase-heavy year. I’m loath to put a number out there, but suffice to say that it’s the second highest of the 5 years during which I’ve been tracking my clothing purchases (2014 to 2018 inclusive). Given the above, that shouldn’t be a big surprise to anyone. There are so many amazing pieces to be thrifted, and as selective as I have become (yes, really!), saying “no” to some of them is beyond my willpower. Some of them were calculated risks – some of which paid off, some of which didn’t. Some of them were impulse buys, including those of the “should have known better” type. About 1/3 of items I bought in 2018 are already gone from my closet – most of them, I hasten to add, to consignment (and the balance either re-donated or reserved for my next clothing swap).

2018 was a fairly frugal year. This might surprise you, coming on the heels of the preceding paragraph, but it shouldn’t. In total, I spent approximately $2,900 on clothing and accessories. [This number excludes undergarments, though they total somewhere in the region of $200-$250, largely because I had to replace a bunch of bras and underwear this year.] The total is the second lowest of the past 5 years. It doesn’t account for all the money I made reselling clothes in 2018, some of which I haven’t spent yet. For any fellow number geeks out there, my out-of-pocket costs were approximately 4.9% of the original manufacturer recommended retail price of the items I bought. Again, I am incredibly lucky in this regard; there is no way that I could afford to have the closet that I do have
were it not for thrifting.

A word on budgets: I keep seeing the figure of “up to 5% of net pay” being thrown around as a benchmark of what a person (woman?) “ought” to spend on clothing. I feel weirdly responsible for this, having bandied about that same number almost a decade ago; to be clear, the idea didn’t originate with me – I think I first read it in a fashion magazine, though I can’t remember – and I have no doubt that it propagated no thanks to my efforts. In any case, I think it’s a statement that should come with a huge caveat, and I feel obliged to include it here. It’s mostly bollocks. There, I said it. There is no “one size fits all” when it comes to discretionary spending of this sort, even with the wiggle room of the implied range (0-5%). On one end of the spectrum, there is a base level of clothing needs which have to be met no matter the person’s income, debt level and/or other financial obligations; sometimes, 5% won’t be enough (at least for a period of time). On the other end of the spectrum, people value different things; some people value and prioritize clothing over other discretionary spending (assuming there are available dollars to begin with), while others most certainly don’t. For me, $2,900 is an acceptable amount to spend on something that is both functional and a hobby. It doesn’t interfere with my day-to-day financial obligations or my family’s long-term plans, and it appropriately reflects the value I place on clothing (and shopping as an activity/hobby). To me, that’s far more important than the fact that it also, coincidentally, fits within the “5% or less” range.

Lastly, 2018 was a year of constant curation. My closet hasn’t magically grown in size – alas! – and I’m sure you can imagine the challenges posed by a steady incoming stream of new (to me) purchases. My wardrobe numbers have been pretty steady throughout the year; I haven’t bothered to go back to check against last year’s tally, but I think they are similar. The current numbers are:

Tops – 33

Sweaters & cardigans – 41 (I think this number went up, oops!)

Blazers – 27

Pants (including jeans) – 28

Skirts – 15

Dresses (including special occasion) – 33

Outerwear – 14

Shoes – 49

Bags – 33

As far as goals for 2019, I don’t have any major ones. I plan to continue limiting retail purchases as much as possible; I would love to say I will go “secondhand only” for the entire year, but I don’t think that’s realistic and I’m not a fan or arbitrary challenges. Since my closet is not lacking for anything (except a couple of replacement pieces here and there), I plan to focus my thrifting efforts on favourite designers who cater to my aesthetic, to either expand my current collection of statement pieces or upgrade existing wardrobe staples. But, let’s be real, I am sure there will be more than a few “experiments” along the way as well, and I’m okay with that.

Do you have any wardrobe/shopping goals for 2019? Would love to hear from you in the comments, especially if you’ve been tracking your closet stats this past year (or before).

What I Wore: New Year’s Eve 2018

If you read my previous post about my NYE outfit deliberations, then you probably won’t be surprised to read that I didn’t make my final decision until, literally, 2 hours before I had to leave for the party, and after trying on ALL of my special occasion dresses … some of the more than once. Luckily, I had my BFF there to help me. As it happens, my final choice was completely serendipitous, and it wouldn’t have happened had she not been there.

But I am getting ahead of myself a bit.

Per my previous post, the obvious front-runners for NYE were a sparkly Armani Collezione dress and a slinky Tadashi Shoji sheath dress. Both of these dresses were new (to me) and sufficiently fancy for the occasion; but for the various reasons I already touched on, neither stood out as the clear winner. By the time December 31st rolled around, I was almost decided on another dress – a Nicole Miller black and white red carpet-worthy number which I last wore at my previous firm’s 2016 Christmas party. It had a lot of advantages; it’s elegant and extremely figure-flattering, but also shockingly comfortable (no Spanx required). Food is a prominent feature of our NYE party, so the latter consideration was important. Still, I wasn’t 100% feeling the Nicole Miller dress.

At my BFF’s instigation, I started to try on every other possible option in my closet. I am talking Every. Single. Cocktail. Dress. I. Own. It was a fun exercise, but nothing jumped out as a better choice than the Nicole Miller. At some point, I walked into my bathroom to have a better look at an outfit in the mirror there (the lighting being brighter than in the bedroom) and my eyes fell on the bundle of clothes I had thrifted on Boxing Day and was in the process of cleaning.

“Jenni,” I said, “you gotta see this vintage Le Chateau dress I just found.”

We had been talking just the day before about aspirational brands of our youth – Le Chateau being one of them, back in the days when spending more than $20 on a dress was a real stretch, budget-wise.

“Yeah, ok,” she replied.

And that, my friends, is how it all started.

I put on the dress – or, more accurately, poured myself into it – and my BFF immediately loved it. “Serving some real 90s Versace glam” is what we eventually landed on, as far as the overall vibe of the dress. Looking into the mirror, I had to admit that it was definitely a very flattering (though not comfortable) dress. I had not thought of it as a possible option for NYE when I bought it because it struck me as being somewhat on the casual side (more for a date night than a dressed-up occasion) but I began to see the potential. I added a couple of gold-toned, blinged out necklaces as a further tribute to the Versace inspiration, and the Manolo Blahnik shoes I had planned to wear all along. The overall effect was undeniably good. I quickly steamed then (at home) dry-cleaned the dress, and I was set – with minutes to spare.

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The only obvious drawback was the (unavoidable) need for Spanx, which made me hesitate for a moment. I hate Spanx with the fire of a thousand suns, especially when I’m planning to enjoy an evening of extensive dining. I tried to substitute some control-top nylons instead, but hated the way they looked with the peep-toe shoes. Beauty is pain, they say. So, I bit the bullet and wore the Spanx. By midnight, I felt like I was just about ready to turn back into a pumpkin, but it was worth it.

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Here’s a closer look at my necklaces:

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From inauspicious beginnings, this NYE story had a very happy ending, and an outfit that will no doubt be a favourite in years to come. I don’t know if and when I’ll be able to wear this dress again, but it was $12 well spent for the memories alone.

What I Wore: Holidays 2018

Goth Ballerina

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I had been eyeing this Rick Owens dress at Swish boutique for a few months before I pulled the trigger. I hesitate to call it my Christmas gift to myself (because, ahem, there were a few splurges late last year), but it’s certainly a piece I am now very happy to call my own. The smoky grey silk is amazing – I feel like I’m wearing a storm cloud. Going by the label, this dress from the 2013 Island collection; I haven’t been able to find a runway photo, so I will have to use my imagination when it comes to styling it. It actually came as 2 pieces; there is a knit black slip dress, which I abandoned for this outfit. Instead, I layered the grey tunic over some recently thrifted Iris Setlakwe coated leggings, and – what else? – a black turtleneck. The velvet slippers are (thrifted) Nine West, and they seemed both festive and on-point with the whole ballerina vibe. I wore this outfit for an extended family-and-friends Christmas Eve party, and it hit the perfect balance of dressy and ultra comfortable.

Festive But Make It Dystopian Too

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This was my outfit for Christmas dinner with my family. (My husband’s side celebrates in January.) I was still feeling the black/grey scheme from the previous evening, so I went with that again. I was feeling festive the whole time, I promise. Faux leather culottes might not seem like an obvious choice for the occasion, but this MSGM pair is surprisingly comfortable; the waist sits lower on me, which nicely accommodates my holiday indulgences. Did I mention that my dad is an amazing cook? He didn’t let us down this year, and neither did my outfit.

Repeated Favourite

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A couple of my best friends decamped to our house to celebrate NYE with us, so on Sunday, we decided to do some bonding over an escape room and dinner. I wore my Rick Owens tunic again, this time over a heavenly Jones NY cashmere turtleneck (it was a cold day, and this thick cashmere is my go-to) and an Aritzia maxi skirt. For fun, I added a belt and one of my new Alexis Bittar necklaces (part of my Christmas gift from my husband). I think I prefer the volume of the tunic un-belted, but it never hurts to play around with silhouettes.

Leather & Plaid

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I thrifted this faux leather Zara cropped top on Boxing Day and couldn’t wait to wear it. The plaid skirt – vaguely Vivienne Westwood-esque – seemed like an interesting pairing. Of course, a turtleneck was also involved, bringing the tally to 4-for-4. I did tell you that black turtlenecks are my comfort object, didn’t I? Looking back, the whole week of holiday outfits turned out to be its own little collection:

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