What I Wore: June 1-10, 2018

Butterfly Action

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These are some good trousers, you guys. I recently thrifted two identical pairs in different colours, and I am chuffed. It’s a tapered, slim fit which is a nice tweak on the “skinny pants” silhouette of recent years. This style is called the “Lou Taper” by Cartonnier. I may or may not be actively looking for other colours on eBay, ahem. Paired with my new Louise et Cie loafers, this is a very “garçonne chic” outfit and a slightly whimsical vibe for the Prince.

 Retro Chic

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This outfit is certainly more “ladylike” than any of my style avatars, which might make it seem like an odd choice for a highlight post. I could have added a bunch of extra accessories to try to take it into Bohemian territory, but I loved the simplicity of the colour scheme and the clean lines. So, in a way, it does suit my current aspirations.

I get a ton of comments on IG every time I wear this skirt, so I’ll mention the details again here in case anyone is interested: the brand is Floreat, and it fits true to size, waist-wise; I am 5’7 and the hem comes down past my knees – not quite midi length but close. Because the solid lining is a bit shorter, however, the skirt doesn’t fall into “dowdy” territory, without leaning too far in the opposite (revealing) direction.

Neo-Floral

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I spotted this faux-layered sweatshirt at my local consignment store a while back, and was immediately drawn to it. After much deliberation, I decided to pass on it because I wasn’t convinced the style fit my current aesthetic. Fast forward a few weeks, and I saw it again. On sale. It was a sign, I decided. And here we are, outfit and all. The sweatshirt is a nice, easy way to elevate a basic casual Friday look. I was worried that the floral applique was full-on twee, but I’ve since concluded that it doesn’t cross the line; it’s bold, for sure, but it’s not especially cute – and “cute” is what I’m generally trying to avoid. I know, that probably sounds arbitrary as hell but it’s a system I’ve worked out in my head at least, I assure you. Let’s just go with it.

What I Watched: Back to Netflix Edition

It’s been a while since I binge-watched Netflix to the extent of recent weeks, but I’ve been working on some larger knitting projects and I find that I enjoy having shows running in the background while I knit. I prefer documentaries and comedy specials for that, because I listen to them without necessarily having to watch them. I’ve lost track of the number of specials I’ve seen, but they included:

– Ali Wong, Hard Knock Wide: as raunchy, or possibly more so, than her first special. I really enjoyed the show, but I think I liked Baby Cobra more – probably because I had no frame of reference for it, while Hard Knock Wife consequently had a high standard to live up to.

– John Mulaney, Kid Gorgeous: he’s not a “must watch” comic for me but this was pretty good.

– Amy Schumer, The Leather Special: kinda meh, to be honest. I felt like I was watching “Amy Schumer, Celebrity” rather than “Amy Schumer, Comic” which was kinda intriguing, but also kinda not as funny.

– Trevor Noah, Afraid of the Dark: I’m a sucker for anyone who can do a bunch of accents, so I liked this a lot. The bit at the end about Russian accents had me in tears. Full disclosure: I am one quarter Russian (hey, it counts), but I can’t do accents to save my life, and especially not a good Russian accent; I am now very sad about that.

Moving on, I watched a bunch of what I call “non-fiction TV”. Better known as “documentaries”. Can you tell that I had been on a reading kick until recently? Anyway, Dirty Money is excellent, you guys. It’s a docu-series that focuses on various financial and business scandals. I especially enjoyed the episodes on Valeant, payday lending, and Donald Trump.

I don’t often feel very strong negative emotions towards people, but I loathed Scott Tucker and his wife as soon as they started speaking. Their complete disregard for the suffering they caused to millions of people, combined with self-pity over Scott’s federal indictment and the loss of their ill-begotten gains, made me sick to my stomach. These people are poster children for what is wrong with capitalism, and I say that as a leaning-to-the-fiscal-conservative-side person.

Equally enraging was the Valeant story, which tested the limits of my conservative tendencies in a similar way. I understand how the pharma business operates, and the fact that a profit needs to be made to provide an incentive to spend money on potentially life-saving R&D. But to gouge exorbitant profits from a “captive market” (people dependent on your drugs to stay alive) without using any portion of that money towards advancing the public good? I simply cannot accept that as a justifiable business model – ethically, morally, whatever. It’s just despicable, and the people involved in that business who only see/care about the bottom line are equally despicable.

So it was interesting to follow up that episode of Dirty Money with Betting on Zero, a documentary about Herbalife. For those of you who don’t know, Herbalife is a multi-level marketing (MLM) company … also known as a pyramid scheme. Now, I consider MLMs to be as scummy as payday lending, so imagine my surprise when I saw a familiar face in an unexpected position.

(Don’t @ me if you’re involved with an MLM; I have no interest in debating this with you. #sorrynotsorry)

Let me back up. One of the biggest investors behind Valeant was the Pershing Square investment fund run by Bill Ackman. Ackman is some kind of Wall Street wunderkid, according to the Vanity Fair articles I binge-read after watching Dirty Money. He went out of his way to support Valeant and its CEO, even after information about its shady practices came to light. Valeant, by the way, has not dropped the prices on its drugs in the aftermath of the resulting public outcry; it is continuing to charge as much as $300,000 for a year’s supply of a life-saving drug that used to cost as little as a $1 a pill or something. Its stock price is in the toilet, however; were it not for the exorbitant prices it continues to charge, it would be bankrupt. Pershing Square lost a ton of money on its Valeant investment before finally selling its stake – which is a little bit of justice, I suppose.

Anyway, the same Bill Ackman shows up in Betting on Zero … because of his crusade against Herbalife. That’s right, Ackman became convinced (not without good reason, I might add) that Herbalife was an unethical pyramid scheme and decided to short their stock – in other words, to bet on the fact that their stock price would go to zero once the truth about their business practices was known and (Ackman believed) the government would take action against Herbalife. The documentary is based around the story of this “short” – which Ackman ended up losing. Even after an FDA investigation which concluded that Herbalife “was not not a pyramid scheme”, the company is chugging along, and expanding into new markets. It had to pay out some kind of settlement per the FDA ruling, but the amount was peanuts. (The documentary doesn’t cover this, but it’s worth digging into if you’re interested. I also recommend John Oliver’s segment on MLMs, which touches on it.)

What was amusing to me was Ackman’s self-positioning as an activist investor – i.e. someone who was pursuing this investment position (the short) almost as an ethical choice. A bit rich, I thought – excuse the pun – considering his stance on Valeant. I guess we all have our blind spots … or something.

So that was it for me, for now; if you have other documentary recc’s, send them my way because I have a lot more knitting on my hands. And tell me what you’ve been reading and watching lately.

A Thrifter’s Compendium of Brands

You may find this hard to believe, but I have become a picky thrifter.

Is there such a thing? In short, yes.

When I first started thrifting regularly, I used to buy a lot of stuff. No, I mean a LOT. It was the euphoria of finding brand names for dirt cheap; I would get excited over every $5 J. Crew skirt or top because … well, J. Crew at retail prices was “fancy” for my budget at the time whereas $5 was eminently affordable. As I started thrifting more frequently, and finding higher end designer items more often, my frame of reference changed. Mall brands were no longer exciting, but I was still fairly indiscriminating about the designer pieces I purchased. Was a fancy label? If so, 9 times out of 10 I would buy it. Finally, at some point in the last year or so, I reached another turning point. Having thrifted pretty much every designer label imaginable, I don’t get excited about them as I used to. I still buy more stuff than the average bear, but I tend to only stick with things that fit my body, aesthetic and lifestyle – whatever the label.

With that said, my years of thrifting have exposed me to a wide variety of brands, and over time I have developed a list of favourites. I thought it might be fun to share my experiences/thoughts, and hear about yours – there is no better way to expand one’s knowledge and become an ever savvier shopper. So, without further ado and in alphabetical order, my (non-exhaustive, yet!) list:

Acne – For jeans, knits, classic basics. I have thrifted 2 pairs of Acne jeans … for others. This is one of my HG brands to find for myself. The aesthetic would fit at least 2 of my style avatars, and the brand has very, um, devoted fans. They must know something.

Adriano Goldschmied – These are some of the best/most comfortable jeans I’ve ever worn, and I have tried pretty much every brand of designer denim out there. I’ve stopped wearing them as often only because I prefer a non-skinny fit now, and AGs (at least the ones I’ve come across at thrift stores) tend to be very skinny.

Alexis Bittar – My fave jewelry designer. Have never spotted it in a thrift store, but hope springs eternal.

Anthropologie – My love/hate relationship with Anthro is well-documented. I love its aesthetic, though it doesn’t always mesh well with mine anymore, which is a problem – I’m always tempted by pieces I actually have no business buying. With that said, if girly/twee stuff is not your style, Anthro does offer more classic/polished/grown-up pieces as well. My favourite sub-brands are: Maeve (dresses, skirts, tops); Floreat (dresses, skirts); Cartonnier (blazers, pants); Pilcro (jeans, pants); Moth (knits); Sparrow (knits); Sleeping on Snow (knits); Moulinette Soeurs (dresses, skirts).

Aritzia – This may be the height of “basic bitch”-ness, but most of my work wardrobe staple pieces – trousers and blazers, in particular – come from Aritzia. The style is conservative enough for my business-casual office, but also modern/updated enough to fit my current (minimalist) aesthetic. Personally, I avoid the actual stores as much as possible; the atmosphere feels snobby, I hate the semi-communal changing rooms, and the layout makes it impossible for me to ever find something I like. Also, retail prices are high for the quality (imho), and the return policy sucks. There are lots of Aritzia pieces to be found in local thrift stores, at consignment, and online.

Attilio Giusti Leombruni (AGL) – The most comfortable flats, period. Some styles are quite unattractive, so don’t be put off; they don’t all look like that. If you’re able to get a (like new or new) pair for under $100, it’s a good deal for the quality you’re getting.

Burberry – I’m not saying you need a $2,000 trench coat. But if you can find Burberry for under, say, $500 – you grab it. I’m a convert to the notion that good quality outerwear, like good quality footwear, is what makes a real difference when it comes to looking polished.

COS – Office basics for a minimalist aesthetic. I don’t think the quality is anything to write sonnets about, but if BR or J. Crew are not your (style) speed when it comes to workwear, this may very well be.

Club Monaco – Slightly more upscale version of Banana Republic. The vibe is kind of a mix between J. Crew and Artizia.

Dries Van Noten – For statement pieces, when you want to feel like a million bucks. Incredible prints and tailoring/draping. Not frequently spotted in the wild, but always worth the wait.

Eileen Fisher – Closet staples for your inner woman-of-a-certain-age (no matter what your actual age). When you want to look slouchy (and be comfortable AF), on purpose. Retail prices are high, but I think EF tries to be ethical (clothes made in the USA, fabric recycling, etc.) so you pay that premium; I recommend waiting for sales or buying secondhand. Quality is good, and most pieces can be hand-washed. In fact, I learned a lot about laundering from EF care labels.

Equipment – Famous for their silk skirts. I don’t wear a lot of button-up shirts, but I do like my butterfly print version from Equipment a lot. I find their sizing to run large in general.

Ferragamo – For shoes, naturally. Very good quality, decent comfort level (the Varina ballet flat excepted). Not all designer brand shoes are worth their prices, when it comes down to quality. Ferragamo shoes are better than most; see also Jimmy Choo and Manolo Blahnik. (Feet are fussy, so this is a category that comes with a whopping YMMV disclaimer.)

Fossil – For good quality leather bags that are relatively inexpensive. Better, in my opinion, than Kate Spade and the like.

J Brand – Next to AG, this used to be my denim go-to brand. I like the quality but, as with AG, I’ve pivoted away from their core styles.

J. Crew – Their general aesthetic is too preppy/generic for my current style, but I still keep an eye out for their shoes. Always check to make sure the shoes are from the retail version, not factory; the latter are not real leather. Their pumps, on deep sale or at thrift prices, are decent value and typically fairly comfortable. Footwear aside, I also like their costume jewelry. Some is too trendy, but they also have interesting pieces that are decent quality.

Jimmy Choo – Not everyone agrees, but I like the quality and comfort of JC shoes. My black patent pumps are probably over 6 years old, and still going strong. They do require the heel tip replaced every so often, but the cost is minor. I wouldn’t pay full retail prices for these (or any designer shoes, to be honest) but I would easily spend up to $200 on a classic pair because I think they’re worth that much.

Judith & Charles – Canadian brand, similar to Theory. Good for workwear, particularly for more conservative business casual or business formal offices.

Kelsi Dagger – For loafers. I know that’s a really specific niche, but I thought I would mention it because cute loafers are not always easy to find. I’ve worn my pair to death over the last couple of years and they’re still in good shape. I’ve seen a bunch of other KD flats at the thrift store, and the aesthetic is always on point (though, sadly, not in my size, sigh).

Madewell – For jeans, and basic staple pieces. Madewell is my current denim obsession. Surprisingly good quality, and really cool styles. I say “surprising” because it’s a sister company to J. Crew, and I don’t like J. Crew denim.

Manolo Blahnik – Comfortable, classic pumps; see my comments above regarding shoes.

Marc Jacobs – My favourite “everyday” bags. I love the thick, pebbled leather of MbMJ (and some MJ) bags – it’s soft and smooshy, and just the best. Their bags are pretty classic and minimally branded for the most part. They’re not trendy, but also not un-trendy, if that makes sense. You can and will use these bags for years without looking “so like insert-year” at any point.

Marni – For cool/interesting shapes and statement pieces. Marni falls into the “ugly chic” category as far as I’m concerned, so it may or may not be your cup of tea.

MaxMara – For outerwear, luxe office wear, and costume jewelry. Definitely splurge territory unless you luck out at the thrift store.

Mulberry – For iconic bags that are not too trendy. The quality is great, especially in older styles made from goatskin leather. As someone who is obsessed with the hardware used in bag design, I love the many varieties of distinctive snaps and closures that Mulberry uses for their bags.

Oak & Fort – Similar to COS and Aritzia, but even slouchier/baggier.

Phillip Lim – For workwear with a twist – interesting details and prints; a feminine take on minimalism.

Rag & Bone – Skinny and coloured denim, casual pieces with a hipster/minimalist aesthetic. Quality, IMO, does not justify retail prices, but they’re worth picking up secondhand.

Rebecca Taylor – Also for workwear, also with a ladylike vibe. A lot of their pieces are too frilly for me, but I’ve found some winners in the past. If you like the Chanel-esque look of tweed jackets, Rebecca Taylor has a ton of “updated takes” on that style.

Rick Owens – For your inner minimalist who likes architectural elements in their clothing.

Sam Edelman – For boots, and specifically the Petty and the Penny boots. Good quality, classic styling.

Smythe – Sharply tailored blazers, most famously worn by Duchess Kate.

Stuart Weitzman – Great quality shoes (including boots) at a lower price level than Blahnik, Choo, etc. I find SW shoes to be very comfortable.

Ted Baker – For statement prints, especially florals. Similar to Clover Canyon. The clothes are typically a “lot of look” (I.e. bold) – perfect for any maximalista out there.

Theory – For work-wear staple pieces, natch.

Tibi – Mostly dresses, often in interesting prints.

Tracy Reese – Dresses and skirts, with a more grown-up version of the Anthropologie aesthetic.

Vanessa Bruno – For “cool girl chic” pieces.

Vince – Mostly for knits. I’m still waiting to find one of their famous cashmere pieces.

Zara – For the occasional wild card. The quality of Zara pieces is all over the map, but it’s possible to find true gems. Because Zara copies anyone and everyone out there, it’s hard to pinpoint its aesthetic; I have often been drawn to pieces at the thrift store because they looked “designer” only to find out that it was, you guessed it, Zara.