Category: Thrifting

Tales From the Thrift: And Now, the Main Event

Let’s talk things I actually thrifted, shall we? The list is — surprise, surprise — not short. All of you guys who were ready to congratulate me on my willpower and discernment on Monday: I’ll understand if you start to have second thoughts on both counts, hah! Impulse thrifting gets the best of all of us at some point, ya know?

St. John raincoat
St. John raincoat

The Goodwill coat section, you guys — it’s the best, I’m telling you. This St. John raincoat was too large on me, but perfect for my mom. She’s so not into designer labels, but it amuses me to find her stuff like this.

Lafayette 148 blazer
Lafayette 148 blazer

I also bought this Lafayette 148 blazer for her, because it was too beautiful to pass up.

Talula leggings
Talula leggings

I can’t say that I’ve ever bought leisurewear at the thrift store before, but these leggings were $3, and I do enough lounging at home to justify them. Made in China, 95% cotton, 5% spandex.

J. Crew pants
J. Crew pants

I probably don’t need bright orange-red pants, but these were 50% off at Goodwill, so why not. Made in China, 58% cotton, 38% viscose, 4% spandex.

J. Crew pants; Left: Anthro top; Right: Nanette Lepore top
J. Crew pants; Left: Anthro top; Right: Nanette Lepore top

The grey pants? Also on sale at Goodwill. I think the colour has a lot of potential — more than red, at any rate. I exercised restraint and did NOT buy the Anthro top on the left (old Adina would have), but decided to get the Nanette Lepore one because (a) it’s made in the US, and 100% silk, and (b) I’m hoping I’ll have a reason (hot date, ahem) to wear it soon. Ooh la la!

Nanette Lepore top
Nanette Lepore top

Another Nanette Lepore top, and this one is going to be a staple, I can just feel it. I love the pattern mix! Made in the US, 100% silk.

Gianni Ferraud coat
Gianni Ferraud coat

Another Goodwill find, bought because I liked the menswear vibe. I don’t know much about the brand but a little Googling tells me it’s from the UK. The quality seems so-so, but for $8, the overall aesthetic was a good enough reason to buy it. Made in China, I think.

Stuart Weitzman pumps
Stuart Weitzman pumps

These SW pumps reminded me of Roger Vivier flats, which I can only dream of thrifting at this point. They’re definitely more eye-catching than your typical black pumps, but sometimes you want your feet to make a statement, no? Made in Spain, 100% leather.

Vince sweater
Vince sweater

This Vince sweater is marked XS, which makes me wonder if it was a men’s size. The style would suggest not … but it’s very loose, to say the least. I can’t say that the quality blew me out of the water (disappointing, but I’ve been underwhelmed by both Vince pieces I’ve found) but I loved the colour, and for $4, I figured I could get enough wear out of it, even just around the house. Made in China (also disappointing, considering the likely original retail price), 100% cotton.

BCBG jacket
BCBG jacket

I spotted this jacket randomly jammed into the cardigan rack, and swooped in like a vulture. I adore it. It’s not particularly versatile but I love the style and pattern – a very “me” piece. Made in China, 100% silk (100% poly lining).

Theory dress
Theory dress

This dress turned into such a disappointment. I loved the fit (especially around the bodice) and tripled checked to make sure it didn’t have any flaws. Well, sometime between the time I bought it and the time I pressed it (after dry-cleaning it at home), it developed a small, faint stain on the front part of the skirt. It’s not super noticeable, but I know it’s there and it bugs me. Not all is lost, however. I plan on taking it to the tailor and having it cut to a (peplum) top if the price is reasonable. Stay tuned. Made in China, 100% silk.

Judith & Charles dress
Judith & Charles dress

This is quickly becoming one of my fave work dresses. Made in Canada, 96% cotton, 4% elastane.

Lida Baday dress
Lida Baday dress

I have similar hopes for this Lida Baday dress. The fit is great, and I’m a sucker for that type of print (Glen check?). Made in Canada, 98% wool, 2% elastane (poly-viscose lining).

In case you were wondering, I did manage to acquire a few Anthro pieces as well. It wouldn’t be a thrift recap otherwise, would it?

Deletta top
Deletta top

No Anthro Left Behind rule in full effect here. Do I need this top? No, but it’s hella cute, and hella cheap. Made in China, 100% cotton.

Postmark top
Postmark top

Sigh. You know the deal. Made in China, 95% cotton, 5% spandex (100% poly trim).

Leifsdottir dress
Leifsdottir dress

I thought this would be a good weekend dress, summer and winter. It would be very simple — and roomy enough — to layer when the time comes. I will say that this is one of the (more recent?) Anthro pieces for which I found the quality to be less than impressive. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a cute dress … but it lacks that Anthro touch. Made in China, 87% polyester, 11% rayon, 2% elastane.

Cartonnier blazer
Cartonnier blazer

Cartonnier blazers on the other hand, are quickly becoming a weakness of mine. With one or two exceptions, these are dependably good work wardrobe pieces. They tend to be softer/less structured, which makes them more comfortable over a long day at the office. I have high hopes that this one will prove its versatility over the long run. Made in China, 100% tencel (100% poly lining).

This time around, I did much better with finding pieces made in North America, but I am continually disappointed by how few garments (at least those that end up in thrift stores) seem to be made here, comparatively speaking. Even higher end designers seem to have off-shored most of their manufacturing, though you wouldn’t be able to tell from the retail prices. I was re-reading Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion recently, and was struck by some numbers that Elizabeth Cline mentioned. She wrote that a dress that cost $633 in materials and labour to produce (in the US), would likely retail for almost $2,900. Think about that: the dress would have to be discounted by 80% before you hit its real value. Obviously, designers, manufacturers and retailers need to make a profit, but it puts all those flashy sales into perspective, doesn’t it? It also makes me think that the real moneymakers are the mid-level designer brands; there is no way that, say, the Vince sweater above (cotton, made in China) cost anywhere near its likely $200+ price tag to manufacture — more like $20 or less. But it carries a certain cachet, and it’s not so outrageously priced to be out of reach of all but the uber wealthy. A lucrative alternative to the F21 business model?

OK, that’s enough rambling for now. Tell, what did the thrift gods bestow on you this month?

Tales from the Thrift: Spotted Not Thrifted Edition

It feels like a while since I did one of these posts, and the photos have been piling up in my “Thrift” folder … I was almost afraid to look. I haven’t thrifted a LOT in September, but I seem to find a LOT whenever I do go. So, in the interest of not putting you to sleep, I decided to split this recap into two posts. First up, things I spotted but not thrifted recently.

Tahari coat
Tahari coat

Isn’t this beautiful? And only $8. I love the Goodwill coat section, sigh. Sadly, this beauty was too big on me.

Joseph Ribkoff dress
Joseph Ribkoff dress

Joseph Ribkoff is a brand I always watch for these days, because it’s made in Canada and a friend of mine loves it. Some pieces are not my style, but I occasionally come across things I really like. This faux wrap dress was one example of the latter, but it was too similar to a dress I already own (and a bit on the short side for me) so I passed.

Schumacher dress
Schumacher dress

I’m not familiar with this brand, but I think it’s German. This was a cool dress … for someone younger, with more exciting, fun places to go than yours truly.

Stuart Weitzman pumps
Stuart Weitzman pumps

I call these the “heartbreaker pumps”. Gorgeous red patent leather, pristine condition. I wanted these so badly. Sadly, they were a size 7.5 not 9. See, heartbreaker.

Kate Spade pumps
Kate Spade pumps

These Kate Spade pumps looked so 90s to me. Chunky heel, velvet, square toe, oh my. I know the 90s revival trend is going strong, but I just can’t. I lived the 90s, and I’m not ready for that particular trip down memory lane.

Spring (?) booties
Spring (?) booties

I was tempted by these because they reminded me of my Clarks ankle booties. I didn’t get them for the same reason — trying to be better about avoiding the “splitting my wears” scenario.

Miz Mooz slingback pumps
Miz Mooz slingback pumps

I get excited whenever I find Miz Mooz at the thrift store, but these were kinda blah, and a little big. Pass.

Tsubo flats
Tsubo flats

Super cute (and new) flats, but I’ve come to realize that I rarely wear round-toe flats. I have a bunch at home I can’t quite bear to part with, but I’m trying not to add more to that collection.

MbMJ and Zac Posen
MbMJ and Zac Posen

I found — and passed — on a bunch of designer pieces. The lesson? Don’t buy things only for the label. Don’t worry: something better (that fits, and you love) is just around the corner.

Dolce & Gabbana jacket
Dolce & Gabbana jacket

I would love to have a D&G piece in my closet, but this jacket wasn’t going to be it. Ixnay on the sleeves … and that price.

Milly blouse
Milly blouse

I love Milly (made in USA!) but I don’t do green, ruffly, or sheer. Pass.

Michael Kors top
Michael Kors top

I liked the watercolour polka dot print, but I didn’t see myself wearing this top. Hope it found a good home.

BCBG blazer
BCBG blazer

I hemmed and hawed over this BCBG blazer, but ultimately passed. I have a terrible weakness for blazers with architectural details, but I decided this wasn’t going to be sufficiently versatile to find room in my overflowing closet.

BCBG dress
BCBG dress

I used to have this dress! Same size … which makes me wonder if this is my old dress. Wouldn’t that be funny? I actually considered buying it because I love the colour palette, but then reminded myself there was a reason I gave it up in the first place (too short and the neckline too plunging for my everyday needs).

Ted Baker dress
Ted Baker dress

Speaking of hard decisions, I also passed on this Ted Baker dress. Loved the hem detail, but the overall aesthetic was “old Adina” and I am resolved to resist the lure of the past.

Sandro dress
Sandro dress

This dress was cute (and the orchid colour is one of my wardrobe “accent colours”) but I just wasn’t feeling the vibe. I think it would be a stunning dress on the right woman, so I left it behind for her to discover it.

Zara t-shirt
Zara t-shirt

I was soooo tempted by this. It would go so well with my husband’s “Koala-fied to Party” baseball tee, which he likes to bust out on special occasions. I ultimately passed, because I’m probably not cool enough for ironic t-shirts, but I do have a smidge of regret.

Speaking of which, I broke my #noAnthroLeftBehind rule more than once — but without any regret. Sometimes, there are valid reasons to, in fact, leave some Anthro pieces behind.

Maeve blouse
Maeve blouse

Take this Maeve top. What the hell? I assure you, it did NOT look better on.

Edme & Esyllte dress
Edme & Esyllte dress

This dress was cute enough, but not my style. I didn’t even try it on.

Leifsnotes dress
Leifsnotes dress

In defence of this dress, it was a size XL so I’m not doing it any favours. But, also, it’s kinda meh. I’m sure someone one there would love it, but that person is definitely not me.

Toms wedges
Toms wedges

I don’t do peep-toes, but these Toms were cute. I texted a pic to my (spirited) thrifting pal, Nicole, but she pleaded foot surgery and passed as well.

NOT Lanvin
NOT Lanvin

I got SO excited for a second there, you guys! And then I had a closer look, and touched the material and “noped” the heck out. Someday, a REAL Lanvin will find me. Well, a girl can dream, right?

A final word: Nicole and I have been having a lot of fun on our recent Tuesday evening thrift outings … so much so, that we’ve started kicking around the idea of making it a recurring, monthly event and inviting fellow Edmonton thrift-lovers to join us. We haven’t quite hashed out the details (or our schedules, hah!) but we’re thinking about making it official in October. Stay tuned for more details!

What is Good Value?

A reader posed an interesting question on a recent thrifting post, and after thinking through my response to her, I decided it would make a good topic for a post of its own. With her permission, I am reproducing the question here (in condensed format), to kick things off:

What do you consider a good price on really high end pieces? For example – I need a new coat that goes over business suits and found a beautiful Italian cashmere coat that looked unworn. Fits beautifully. Price is ~10% of full retail (I researched) – but retail is over $3K. So it seems pricey but the quality and fit are amazing. I noticed a trend for the cost of better designer stuff [on the secondhand market] to be about 10% of retail. Good? Bad?

Boiled down to its essence, this is a question that most thrifters (and fans of secondhand shopping generally) have to face: how do you judge “good value”? Here are my two cents on that.

Retail Value as Benchmark

As reader SAK suggested, using the retail value of an item as a benchmark is one way of determining whether its re-sale price is “good value” or not. There are several things about this method that I like, as well as some drawbacks I’ll address in a minute. First of all, we are wired to assess value through comparison, so this approach taps into that. Getting something for $5 when the original price tag was $250 feels like “good value” and sometimes that’s as objective an answer as we can get. Moreover, higher retail value generally correlates with better quality, which means that our objective feelings might have some grounding in reality.

But, as I mentioned, there are drawbacks too. Retail value can be, on occasion, hard to determine – especially with pieces older than 2-3 years, which is what you might typically expect to find in secondhand stores. Dedicated thrifters like me have learned the Google tricks that will yield the most useful results, but even we can be stumped at times. As well, retail value is sometimes misleading as an indicator of quality. There are $250 sweaters that are appreciably better than $100 sweaters, and some that are no better, or perhaps worse in quality. There is probably little difference between a $250 sweater and a $350 one. There is almost certainly no difference between a $350 sweater and a $700 one, unless the latter is weaved by fancy French elves from the discarded hairballs of the legendary Choupette. Fabrics and finishes can provide some clues as to the real manufacturing cost and, hence, the mark-up involved in the retail price. (Ethical manufacturing is an even bigger clue.) And here’s a hypothetical question: would a $5 sweater that retailed for $250 seem as good of a bargain if you knew it cost $25 to produce?

Going back to SAK’s original query, I think that 10% is not a bad benchmark if you’re judging value based on retail price. Clothing depreciates way faster than cars, you guys! As soon as you cut those original tags off, the value typically drops by 20% or more. Wear the piece a few times, and you’ll be lucky to get 40% of its retail value … and that is if you can sell it directly (i.e. eBay or Poshmark) rather than through a third party (i.e. consignment), and if the piece is from a brand with good “resale value” – which is not necessarily the same as brand cachet. Looking at it from the buyer’s perspective, that’s good news: you can easily score things for 10% or less than retail value, particularly at thrift stores. My current average for the year (not counting bags, since I tend to buy high-end designer pieces at consignment stores, which skew the results a lot) is just over 5%. I’m probably not the best example, since I’m more than a casual thrifter, but 10% is totally doable for most people with access to decent thrift stores.

Price Set Points

For most thrifted pieces, price set points don’t really come into the picture. A price set point is the highest amount a person feels comfortable paying for a particular item of clothing. This can vary from item to item, and from person to person. I always find it interesting to talk to people about their price set points because they are often vastly different from mine, and it’s fascinating to hear the explanations for those differences. Anyway, most people are willing to spend $20 or less on any one piece of clothing, so price set points are not usually helpful in assessing “good value” when it comes to thrifting. SAK’s example, on the other hand, serves as a good illustration of when this approach can be helpful.

Is $300 too much to spend on a coat — irrespective of how beautiful or useful that coat might be? If you answered “no”, you might have a hard time imagining that someone would ever say “yes”, but I assure you that such people exist. I used to be one of them. (To be honest, I would still have a hard time spending $300 on a coat today, even though I did spend nearly as much on my MaxMara coat and never regretted it.) Here is another example: would you spend $2,000 on a bag? What if it was a $20,000 Hermes Birkin? Some people might say “yes” — to the Birkin — others will say “no” to the price out of hand — Birkin or no Birkin.

Price set points can provide another benchmark against which to assess “good value”. If your price set point for a coat is $500, then a $300 coat that meets all your functional and aesthetic criteria is a good deal. If your price set point is $300, then the same coat might be less impressive of a deal … unless you consider other benchmarks in conjunction with the price set point (like the retail value). In fact, I usually do that. Over time, I have developed a thrift version of price set points — like, $20 for dresses, $10 for pants, $10 for blazers, etc — but they can nudged upwards by things like original retail value.

And that is one of the main downsides of price set points generally: over time, they tend to fluctuate … typically in one (upward) direction. My bag collection is proof of that. Sigh.

Cost per Wear Calculations

As a statistics nerd, I love the concept of cost-per-wear. I track it for all my clothing and accessories … which is how I know that I (along with most people, I would imagine) am pretty terrible at estimating it. I tend to greatly over-estimate how many times I will wear a particular item, and for how long. That’s partially a function of the fact that I have a ton of clothes; no matter how much I might love a piece when I buy it, the reality is that it will be competing for wears with a lot of other stuff. Unless we’re talking about committed minimalists, the same applies (to a lesser extent) for most of us. Obviously, I don’t think that having more clothes than strictly functionally necessary is a bad thing; I think variety is fun. But it’s something that needs to be factored into CPW calculations and often isn’t.

Let me give you an example. I’m a dress person. On average (counting weekends), I wear dresses at least 2-3 times per week, year-round. Using the lower estimate, that’s 104 dress wears per year. Now, I won’t tell you how many dresses I own, because I don’t want to horrify you, but let’s use a fairly conservative number: let’s say I had 10 dresses in total. (Hahahahaha!) Assuming I wore all my dresses equally, that means each dress would get less than 11 wears per year. Now, let’s take a new dress, with a $100 price tag. If it went into my annual rotation, alongside my other dresses (and I did not purge another dress to make room for it), it would take over 10 years before the CPW of that dress became $1 … assuming I didn’t buy any more dresses after that … and that I still had the dress, 10 years later. In my case, it’s unlikely that either of those assumptions would bear out.

CPW rarely helps me decide if something is good value at the thrift store — a cute dress for $5 is ALWAYS a good deal, as far as I’m concerned — but it helps a great deal when I’m at the mall. Unless, I’m considering something I’ve already tried and failed to find at the thrift store (and the item in question is *precisely* what I’m looking for), CPW is usually the thing that deters me from getting out my wallet. When you’ve got as large a closet as I do, and as many thrifting options, it’s hard to justify retail prices.

Phew, that was quite the dissertation. Your turn: tell me how you decide if something is “good value”?